What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingPropylene Glycol
HumectantLactobionic Acid
BufferingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningMentha Piperita Oil
MaskingCucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
EmollientCitrus Grandis Peel Oil
MaskingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCitric Acid
BufferingArginine
MaskingMenthyl Lactate
MaskingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Chlorphenesin
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Butylene Glycol, Gluconolactone, Polysorbate 80, Propylene Glycol, Lactobionic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Retinyl Palmitate, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Mentha Piperita Oil, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Citric Acid, Arginine, Menthyl Lactate, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylyl Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Chlorphenesin, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Hexyl Cinnamal, CI 42090, CI 19140
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningIsocetyl Stearate
EmollientHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientArginine
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Lactobionic Acid
BufferingDimethicone
EmollientMagnesium Aluminum Silicate
AbsorbentAesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningAscophyllum Nodosum Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Skin ConditioningAsparagopsis Armata Extract
Skin ProtectingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialEpilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Glycyrrhizate
MaskingCaffeine
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantZinc Gluconate
Skin ConditioningSorbitol
HumectantMannitol
HumectantAmmonium Hydroxide
BufferingPropylene Glycol
HumectantDextran
Disodium EDTA
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientIsopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialCI 77288
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Butylene Glycol, Gluconolactone, Isocetyl Stearate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Arginine, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-100 Stearate, Lactobionic Acid, Dimethicone, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Aesculus Hippocastanum Seed Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Asparagopsis Armata Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Caffeine, Bisabolol, Zinc Gluconate, Sorbitol, Mannitol, Ammonium Hydroxide, Propylene Glycol, Dextran, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, CI 77288
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolChlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.
Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.
Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.
Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.
Learn more about ChlorphenesinDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGluconolactone is a PHA. PHAs are a great gentle alternative to traditional AHAs.
When applied, Gluconolactone has the same affect on skin as AHAs such as lactic acid. It helps dissolve the dead skin cells in the top layer of your skin. This improves texture and brightens the skin.
PHAs are more gentle than AHAs due to their larger structure. They do not penetrate as deeply as AHAs and take a longer time to dissolve dead cells. Studies show PHAs do not cause as much irritation.
Gluconolactone has some interesting properties:
In a 2004 study, Gluconolactone was found to prevent UV damage in mouse skin cells and has not been found to increase sun sensitivity. However, we still recommend wearing SPF daily.
This ingredient is is an created by reacting gluconic acid with an alcohol.
Learn more about GluconolactoneLactobionic Acid is a PHA. PHAs are the gentle cousins to AHAS.
Like AHAs, they exfoliate the top layer of skin. Lactobionic acid also exhibits significant antioxidant activity.
PHAs are more gentle than AHAs due to their larger structure. This means they do not penetrate as deeply as AHAs and take a longer time to dissolve dead cells. Studies show PHAs do not cause as much irritation.
By removing dead skin cells, PHAs leave the skin brighter and with even-texture.
Learn more about Lactobionic AcidPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water