What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantPropanediol
SolventBetaine
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingCarnosine
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Propanediol, Betaine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Carbomer, Arginine, Polysorbate 20, Carnosine, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Sodium Hyaluronate, Disodium EDTA, Caprylyl Glycol, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Dextrin
Water
Skin ConditioningMethylpropanediol
SolventButylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Biosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningGlycine
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantSerine
MaskingGlutamic Acid
HumectantHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Potassium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningAspartic Acid
MaskingLeucine
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningAlanine
MaskingLysine
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingTyrosine
MaskingPhenylalanine
MaskingThreonine
Proline
Skin ConditioningValine
MaskingIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningSodium
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantHistidine
HumectantMethionine
Skin ConditioningCysteine
AntioxidantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantPhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-29
AntioxidantOligopeptide-32
AntiseborrhoeicPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-22
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Methylpropanediol, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Beta-Glucan, Glycine, Tocopherol, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Pentylene Glycol, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Proline, Valine, Isoleucine, Sodium, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Histidine, Methionine, Cysteine, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Phosphatidylcholine, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Oligopeptide-29, Oligopeptide-32, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineArginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water