This acne treatment is formulated around Azelaic Acid to clear breakouts and calm redness.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Azelaic Acid 15%
BufferingNiacinamide 4%
SmoothingPanthenol 1%
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Olivate
Dimethicone
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantOryza Sativa Starch
AbsorbentPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingPolymethyl Methacrylate
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPvp
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Water
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantAzelaic Acid 15%, Niacinamide 4%, Panthenol 1%, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ceramide NP, Cetearyl Olivate, Dimethicone, Glycerin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Oryza Sativa Starch, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polymethyl Methacrylate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Polysorbate 20, Pvp, Sorbitan Olivate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Water, Propylene Glycol
Water
Skin ConditioningAzelaic Acid
BufferingButylene Glycol
HumectantMethylpropanediol
SolventDimethicone
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingDipropylene Glycol
HumectantSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingPolyacrylate-6
Squalane
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantHydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid
BufferingStearyl Alcohol
EmollientAllantoin
Skin ConditioningCyclodextrin
AbsorbentCapryloyl Glycine
CleansingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingO-Cymen-5-Ol
AntimicrobialMadecassoside
AntioxidantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingSaururus Chinensis Leaf/Root Extract
AntimicrobialTaraxacum Officinale Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningStephania Tetrandra Root Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Azelaic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Glucoside, Dipropylene Glycol, Sorbitan Olivate, Polyacrylate-6, Squalane, Cetyl Alcohol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Allantoin, Cyclodextrin, Capryloyl Glycine, Xanthan Gum, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Madecassoside, Centella Asiatica Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Saururus Chinensis Leaf/Root Extract, Taraxacum Officinale Leaf Extract, Stephania Tetrandra Root Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.
What makes it special?
OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.
Here's what each tier does best:
Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.
Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.
Learn more about Azelaic AcidButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water