What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Euphorbia Cerifera Wax
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Masking
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Emollient
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Copernicia Cerifera Wax
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientButylene Glycol
Humectant
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate
Emollient
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Masking
C13-15 Alkane
SolventCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantIron Oxides
CI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 73360
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantEthylhexyl Palmitate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Octyldodecanol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Cocos Nucifera Oil, C13-15 Alkane, CI 77891, Iron Oxides, CI 15850, CI 73360, CI 42090, CI 19140
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Masking
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Euphorbia Cerifera Wax
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emollient
Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Persea Gratissima Oil
Skin Conditioning
Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Masking
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Emollient
Fragaria Ananassa Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
Antioxidant
Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningRubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
AstringentVitis Vinifera Skin Extract
Antioxidant
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Skin Protecting
Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract
AstringentBeta Vulgaris Root Extract
Skin ConditioningRubus Idaeus Bud Extract
Skin ConditioningEuterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Bixa Orellana Seed Extract
MaskingDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin Conditioning
Prunus Cerasus Extract
Antioxidant
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Masking
Charcoal
Abrasive
Iron Oxides
CI 77742
Cosmetic ColorantRicinus Communis Seed Oil, Octyldodecanol, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, Tocopherol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Persea Gratissima Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Fragaria Ananassa Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Skin Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Rubus Idaeus Bud Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Bixa Orellana Seed Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Prunus Cerasus Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Charcoal, Iron Oxides, CI 77742
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil is the INCI name for castor oil.
Castor Oil helps moisturize the skin. It is rich in a fatty acid called ricinoleic acid. This fatty acid helps prevent moisture loss on the skin. This helps keep your skin soft and hydrated. Ricinoleic acid also has anti-inflammatory and pain reducing properties.
Besides hydrating the skin, castor oil is also used to hydrate hair. By keeping the hair shaft moisturized, breakage is decreased. More studies are needed to show castor oil's effective on stimulating hair growth.
Castor oil is created by cold-pressing castor seeds and then purifying the oil with heat. It was used in Ancient Egypt as fuel in lamps and to help treat eye irritation.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about Ricinus Communis Seed OilTocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolEuphorbia Cerifera wax comes from a shrub in Northern Mexico. It is used to stabilize formulations and has emollient properties.
Emollients form a thin layer on top of skin to prevent water from evaporating, keeping skin and lips hydrated.
According to a manufacturer, this wax can range from a yellow/brown color to translucent.
Learn more about Euphorbia Cerifera WaxThis ingredient is a combination of red, black, and yellow iron oxide pigments. This combination of colors is usually found in foundation, because it results in a "skin" color.
The EU typically uses CI numbers for colorants when applicable, such as CI 77489. In the US, iron oxides are regulated as color additives and "iron oxides" is the most commonly used name in US cosmetic practice.
A 2021 paper looked at skincare formulations containing iron oxides and found that they reduced transmission of blue light when measured optically. In simple terms, the pigment particles helped block or scatter part of the visible light spectrum in lab testing and the authors suggest this could translate into better protection against blue-light-related skin effects.
There is also clinical and experimental research showing that tinted products containing iron oxides can reduce visible light-induced pigmentation:
Please note, whether a product reduces visible or blue light depends on things like:
In the EU's CosIng database, iron oxides are only listed as a colorant. CosIng groups ingredients by their main cosmetic role, such as colorant, preservative, or UV filter.
Though studies say iron oxides can "attenuate blue light", they're describing an optical property and not an officially recognized cosmetic function.
So CosIng isn’t contradicting the research. It’s just classifying iron oxides by what they officially are: pigments that add color.
Learn more about Iron Oxides
