What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Octyldodecanol
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingEuphorbia Cerifera Wax
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCopernicia Cerifera Wax
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantGlyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingC13-15 Alkane
SolventCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantIron Oxides
CI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 73360
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantEthylhexyl Palmitate, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Octyldodecanol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glyceryl Behenate/Eicosadioate, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Cocos Nucifera Oil, C13-15 Alkane, CI 77891, Iron Oxides, CI 15850, CI 73360, CI 42090, CI 19140
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingOctyldodecanol
EmollientEuphorbia Cerifera Wax
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHydrogenated Castor Oil
EmollientHydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientFragaria Ananassa Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPunica Granatum Fruit Extract
AntioxidantVaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningRubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
AstringentVitis Vinifera Skin Extract
AntioxidantVaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingRubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract
AstringentBeta Vulgaris Root Extract
Skin ConditioningRubus Idaeus Bud Extract
Skin ConditioningEuterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Bixa Orellana Seed Extract
MaskingDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPrunus Cerasus Extract
AntioxidantCurcuma Longa Root Extract
MaskingCharcoal
AbrasiveIron Oxides
CI 77742
Cosmetic ColorantRicinus Communis Seed Oil, Octyldodecanol, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate, Tocopherol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Persea Gratissima Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Fragaria Ananassa Fruit Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Skin Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Rubus Idaeus Bud Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Bixa Orellana Seed Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Prunus Cerasus Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Charcoal, Iron Oxides, CI 77742
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
This ingredient is also known as castor oil. It is a skin conditioning ingredient.
The star component of castor oil is ricinoleic acid, an unusual fatty acid that makes up ~80-92% of its composition.
In skincare, it is an emollient that dries down to a solid film with water-binding properties. This helps keep skin hydrated and helps reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
A 2026 dermatology review pulls together its broader uses:
Human clinical testing found this ingredient to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Because castor oil contains fatty acids in the C11-24 range, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
At this time, the literature does not support castor oil in regrowing hair. A 2022 systematic review found no strong evidence that it supports hair growth and only weak evidence that it improves hair shine.
Castor oil itself carries "perfuming" and "masking" function tags according to the official CosIng database. This is because of its mild odor and odor-dampening properties.
Learn more about Ricinus Communis Seed OilTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolEuphorbia Cerifera Wax (aka candelilla wax) is a vegan stand-in for beeswax. It is a plant-derived wax that functions as an astringent, emulsion stabilizer, film-former, and skin conditioner.
On skin, it forms a protective barrier that helps lock in moisture while it enhances product stability, prevents separation, and helps color last longer in makeup.
This ingredient is generally safe for use in cosmetics with one nuance: some grades of candelilla wax can naturally contain benzyl alcohol at concentrations high enough to require declaration under EU labeling rules. This isn't a concern for most people but relevant for those with fragrance sensitivities.
Candelilla wax contains fatty acids (mainly C31) and wax esters that can be used by the Malassezia yeast, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
You might see Euphorbia Cerifera "Cera" instead of "wax". This is because some brands, databases, or labels use it interchangeably; they're the same ingredient.
Learn more about Euphorbia Cerifera WaxThis ingredient is a combination of red, black, and yellow iron oxide pigments. This combination of colors is usually found in foundation, because it results in a "skin" color.
The EU typically uses CI numbers for colorants when applicable, such as CI 77489. In the US, iron oxides are regulated as color additives and "iron oxides" is the most commonly used name in US cosmetic practice.
A 2021 paper looked at skincare formulations containing iron oxides and found that they reduced transmission of blue light when measured optically. In simple terms, the pigment particles helped block or scatter part of the visible light spectrum in lab testing and the authors suggest this could translate into better protection against blue-light-related skin effects.
There is also clinical and experimental research showing that tinted products containing iron oxides can reduce visible light-induced pigmentation:
Please note, whether a product reduces visible or blue light depends on things like:
In the EU's CosIng database, iron oxides are only listed as a colorant. CosIng groups ingredients by their main cosmetic role, such as colorant, preservative, or UV filter.
Though studies say iron oxides can "attenuate blue light", they're describing an optical property and not an officially recognized cosmetic function.
So CosIng isn’t contradicting the research. It’s just classifying iron oxides by what they officially are: pigments that add color.
Learn more about Iron Oxides