The Derma Co 5% Propylene Oil Free Moisturizer Versus Dot & Key Skincare 72 HR Hydrating Gel Moisturizer + Probiotics
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Hyaluronic Acid and Xylitol to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Hyaluronic Acid and Saccharide Isomerate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHyaluronic Acid
HumectantXylitol
HumectantGlucose
HumectantAnhydroxylitol
HumectantNopalea Cochenillifera Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantDimethicone
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientC15-19 Alkane
SolventStearic Acid
CleansingCetyl Palmitate
EmollientSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingIsohexadecane
EmollientPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSqualene
EmollientTrehalose
HumectantHydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingXylitylglucoside
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Ceramide Ng
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Sterols
EmollientWater, Propylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hyaluronic Acid, Xylitol, Glucose, Anhydroxylitol, Nopalea Cochenillifera Extract, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, C15-19 Alkane, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Palmitate, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80, Carbomer, Squalene, Trehalose, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Sodium Hydroxide, Xylitylglucoside, Disodium EDTA, Ceramide Ng, Glycine Soja Sterols
Water
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingGlycerin
HumectantPolyacrylamide
C13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientLaureth-7
EmulsifyingSilanetriol
Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantDivinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer
C12-13 Pareth-23
CleansingC12-13 Pareth-3
EmulsifyingDimethylsilanol Hyaluronate
HumectantSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantOryza Sativa Bran Water
MaskingSaccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Skin ConditioningAvena Sativa Meal Extract
SoothingPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentSodium Hydroxide
BufferingMethylsilanol Mannuronate
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeMethylisothiazolinone
PreservativeAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
CI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Glycerin, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Silanetriol, Hyaluronic Acid, Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer, C12-13 Pareth-23, C12-13 Pareth-3, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Saccharide Isomerate, Oryza Sativa Bran Water, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Avena Sativa Meal Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Lactobacillus, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hydroxide, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylisothiazolinone, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Disodium EDTA, CI 42090
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.
Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.
The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.
The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.
A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.
These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:
Learn more about Hyaluronic AcidPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolSodium Hydroxide is also known as lye or caustic soda. It is used to adjust the pH of products; many ingredients require a specific pH to be effective.
In small amounts, sodium hydroxide is considered safe to use. However, large amounts may cause chemical burns due to its high alkaline.
Your skin has a natural pH and acid mantle. This acid mantle helps prevent harmful bacteria from breaking through. The acid mantle also helps keep your skin hydrated.
"Alkaline" refers to a high pH level. A low pH level would be considered acidic.
Learn more about Sodium HydroxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water