What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantSodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2
Absorbent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycereth-25 PCA Isostearate
EmulsifyingArginine
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Parfum
MaskingBackhousia Citriodora Leaf Extract
AstringentPrunus Persica Fruit Extract
AbrasiveCastanea Crenata Shell Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingFragaria Vesca Leaf Extract
AstringentLavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract
CleansingZinc PCA
HumectantOenothera Biennis Flower Extract
AstringentPinus Palustris Leaf Extract
TonicPueraria Lobata Root Extract
HumectantUlmus Davidiana Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCalamine
AbsorbentMentha Suaveolens Leaf Extract
AstringentCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialThymus Vulgaris Extract
PerfumingWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Glycereth-25 PCA Isostearate, Arginine, Carbomer, Panthenol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Parfum, Backhousia Citriodora Leaf Extract, Prunus Persica Fruit Extract, Castanea Crenata Shell Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Fragaria Vesca Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Zinc PCA, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Calamine, Mentha Suaveolens Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Extract
Water
Skin ConditioningEthoxydiglycol
HumectantMethylpropanediol
SolventMethyl Gluceth-20
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingMelaleuca Alternifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningCorchorus Olitorius Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningAngelica Keiskei Extract
AntioxidantNelumbo Nucifera Root Extract
Skin ConditioningHibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water
AntimicrobialMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantOctyldodecanol
EmollientOctyldodeceth-16
EmulsifyingAsiaticoside
AntioxidantMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningGlycolipids
Skin ConditioningAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningC12-13 Alketh-9
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingPvp
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentDisodium EDTA
4-Terpineol
MaskingZinc PCA
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Ethoxydiglycol, Methylpropanediol, Methyl Gluceth-20, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Centella Asiatica Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Corchorus Olitorius Leaf Extract, Angelica Keiskei Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Root Extract, Hibiscus Esculentus Fruit Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Octyldodecanol, Octyldodeceth-16, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Glycolipids, Asiatic Acid, C12-13 Alketh-9, Carbomer, Tromethamine, Pvp, Sodium Polyacrylate, Disodium EDTA, 4-Terpineol, Zinc PCA, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Carbomer is a synthetic thickening and gelling agent. It's basically the ingredient that gives a lot of serums, gels, creams, and sunscreens their smooth, non-sticky texture.
Although legally permitted at very high levels, carbomers are normally used at concentrations below 1%.
It also needs to be neutralized to actually thicken, and because it is a large molecule, it doesn't really penetrate the skin barrier.
Allergy-wise, the risk is very low. Clinical studies show carbomers have low potential for skin irritation/sensitization even at concentrations up to 100%.
A 2024 UK study patch-tested 1,302 patients and found true allergy to the parent group of carbomer to be rare with no confirmed relevant reactions.
Learn more about CarbomerCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterZinc PCA is a clever two-in-one molecule: the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA).
Think of it as two useful things bonded together; the PCA half is one of your skin's own natural moisturizing factors (NMF) so it helps hold water in the upper layers. On the other hand, the zinc half does the heavy lifting on oil and bacteria.
The zinc part slows down an enzyme that turns testosterone into DHT, the hormone that tells your oil glands to pump out more sebum. Less of that signal means less oil. It also gently fights acne-causing bacteria and soothes redness/irritation.
This is why Zinc PCA often shows up in products for oily, breakout-prone skin and greasy scalps.
One lab study also hinted it might have a small anti-aging perk because it seemed to protect collagen from UVA damage and even helped the skin make a bit more of it. That last bit is still early research done in a dish and not real skin, so take it as a nice bonus rather than a promise for now.
As for scar healing, the picture is more "maybe" than a firm yes. Zinc itself plays a real role in wound repair because it is a cofactor for the enzymes involved in collagen building, calming inflammation, and helping new skin cells cover a wound. Lower zinc levels are also linked to slower healing.
Most of the scar healing research is on zinc oxide or oral zinc rather than zinc PCA specifically, with a focus on healing fresh wounds instead of scars that are already there.
Direct evidence that zinc PCA improves the look of established scars is still limited at this time. Though it would be fair to say zinc PCA supports the general skin-repair environment thanks to its zinc content .
This ingredient is water-soluble and plays nicely with other actives like niacinamide and salicylic acid. It works best at mildly acidic formulas (~4-6 pH) and is effective at low levels. Around 0.1% is enough to be active and finished products commonly use it anywhere up to 4%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-drama multitasker that suits oily and acne-prone skin.
Learn more about Zinc PCA