What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingCera Alba
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingCopernicia Cerifera Cera
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCandelilla Cera
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin ConditioningBeta-Caryophyllene
MaskingCarvone
MaskingCitral
PerfumingCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Peel Oil
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
MaskingGeraniol
PerfumingGeranyl Acetate
PerfumingGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingLinalyl Acetate
MaskingParfum
MaskingPinene
MaskingTerpinolene
PerfumingTocopherol
AntioxidantVanillin
MaskingRicinus Communis Seed Oil, Cera Alba, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Candelilla Cera, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Water, Beta-Caryophyllene, Carvone, Citral, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Geraniol, Geranyl Acetate, Glycine Soja Oil, Limonene, Linalool, Linalyl Acetate, Parfum, Pinene, Terpinolene, Tocopherol, Vanillin
Cocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCera Alba
EmollientCandelilla Cera
EmollientRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingOctocrylene
UV AbsorberEthylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
UV AbsorberButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientHydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
EmollientButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV AbsorberCopernicia Cerifera Cera
EmollientGarcinia Indica Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientCitrus Limon Peel Oil
MaskingPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningLimonene
PerfumingTocopherol
AntioxidantXimenia Americana Seed Oil
EmollientCitrus Medica Limonum Peel Extract
EmollientStevia Rebaudiana Extract
Alumina
AbrasivePEG-8
HumectantLauroyl Lysine
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientCitral
PerfumingAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantMica
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantCI 73360
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77120
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCocos Nucifera Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Cera Alba, Candelilla Cera, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Octocrylene, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Garcinia Indica Seed Butter, Squalane, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Limonene, Tocopherol, Ximenia Americana Seed Oil, Citrus Medica Limonum Peel Extract, Stevia Rebaudiana Extract, Alumina, PEG-8, Lauroyl Lysine, Glycine Soja Oil, Citral, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid, Ascorbic Acid, CI 77891, Mica, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 45410, CI 73360, CI 15850, CI 17200, CI 77120, CI 19140
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCandelilla Cera isn't fungal acne safe.
Cera alba is beeswax, or the wax used by bees to make honeycombs. It is a texture-enhancer and emollient. A study from 2003 found beeswax to be a stronger emollient than ingredients such as petroleum jelly.
As an emollient, beeswax helps hydrate the skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier traps moisture in.
Emulsifiers help prevent ingredients from separating. This helps create consistent texture.
The structure of beeswax is mainly long-chain alcohols and the esters of fatty acids.
There are three types of beeswax: yellow, white, and absolute. Yellow is pure beeswax taken from the honeycomb. White beeswax is created by filtering or bleaching yellow beeswax. Absolute beeswax is created by treating beeswax with alcohol. Beeswax used in cosmetics are purified.
Beeswax has been used throughout history and even in prehistoric times. Some common uses for beeswax still used today are making candles, as a waterproofing agent, and polish for leather.
Learn more about Cera AlbaCitral is the molecule responsible for the fresh lemon scent in lemon, lime, and lemongrass. It is a fragrance ingredient that can be created from plant essential oils or synthetically.
Though Citral has documented antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria (which is where the marketing claims about it being good for acne-prone skin originate), real formulas use it at fragrance-level concentrations under 1% so there's likely no skin benefit.
You should know this ingredient is a known EU fragrance allergen.
Animal studies classifies this ingredient as a weak-to-moderate skin sensitizer and clinical patch testing on eczema patients confirmed it to be both a contact allergen and irritant.
The term 'citral' is a collective term for two geometric isomers: geranial/Citral A and neral/Citral B.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about CitralCitrus Limon Peel Oil is created from the peels of the lemon. It is used to add a lemon-scent to products. Lemon peel oil also has antibacterial, antifungal, and antioxidant properties. However, it may also cause phototoxicity and sensitize skin.
Lemon peel oil contains limonene, a skin sensitizing ingredient. Another component is furanocoumarin, which induces phototoxicity in skin.
Furanocoumarins bind and destabilize your DNA to increase the rate of sunburn.
Most reputable companies will remove furanocoumarins from their formulations.
Learn more about Citrus Limon Peel OilThis ingredient is also known as coconut oil. It is a plant-derived ingredient with skin conditioning properties.
The fatty acid profile of coconut oil is mostly lauric acid (~54%), followed by capric, caprylic, palmitic, and myristic acids. This profile allows it to penetrate easily into skin, moisturize, and improve dry skin.
A double-blind study confirmed that extra virgin coconut oil is as effective as mineral oil for treating very dry skin. Another study found it outperformed mineral oil for mild to moderate atopic dermatitis in children.
Another study from 2018 found that virgin coconut oil can soothe inflammation and boost key skin barrier proteins. Just know this evidence is still only from lab settings and not human trials.
It has also been shown to reduce Staphylococcus aureus, a bacteria that commonly overgrows in people with eczema.
Clinical testing shows very minimal skin irritation and no evidence of sensitization or phototoxicity.
Coconut oil gets flagged as a "fragrance" because it has a natural mild scent (not because it's a synthetic perfume). The European Cosmetic ingredient database also lists "perfuming" as a function of this ingredient.
Just so you know, the term "fragrance" is completely unregulated. Some brands still use botanical extracts or essential oils in their "fragrance-free" formulas, but regulatory databases technically classify these under "fragrance".
Coconut oil has a tiny and useless bit of natural SPF. Early lab studies clocked it around SPF 7-8 but a more recent study found the real number closer to SPF 1.2. It also offers no meaningful UVA protection (SPF only overs UVB rays).
The comedogenic rating of 4/5 means it has a high potential to clog pores; but it's worth noting that comedogenicity is highly individual and ratings cannot predict how an overall formula will behave on skin.
Since lauric acid is the dominant fatty acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between 11-24, and lauric acid falls within these lengths (C12).
Learn more about Cocos Nucifera OilThis ingredient comes from a palm tree native to Brazil. This ingredient is used to thicken texture and leaves behind a film when applied.
Glycine Soja Oil comes from the soybean. Glycine Soja is native to eastern Asia.
Soybean oil is an emollient. It is rich in antioxidants and fatty acids including palmitic, stearic, oleic, and linoleic acids.
As an emollient, the fatty acids in soybean oil helps keep your skin soft and hydrated. It does so by creating a film on top that traps moisture in.
Soybean oil is also rich in vitamin E, a potent antioxidant. Vitamin E is also anti-inflammatory and provides a soothing effect.
Studies show soy may help fade hyperpigmentation from UVB. It does so by disrupting the melanin process from UVB induced skin inflammation.
This ingredient may not be malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne, safe.
Soybeans are rich in proteins and are part of the legume family. Foods made with soybeans include tofu, soymilk, edamame, miso, and soy sauce.
Learn more about Glycine Soja OilLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneRicinus Communis Seed Oil is the INCI name for castor oil.
Castor Oil helps moisturize the skin. It is rich in a fatty acid called ricinoleic acid. This fatty acid helps prevent moisture loss on the skin. This helps keep your skin soft and hydrated. Ricinoleic acid also has anti-inflammatory and pain reducing properties.
Besides hydrating the skin, castor oil is also used to hydrate hair. By keeping the hair shaft moisturized, breakage is decreased. More studies are needed to show castor oil's effective on stimulating hair growth.
Castor oil is created by cold-pressing castor seeds and then purifying the oil with heat. It was used in Ancient Egypt as fuel in lamps and to help treat eye irritation.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about Ricinus Communis Seed OilTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about Tocopherol