What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantCocoglycerides
EmollientAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialDistarch Phosphate
AbsorbentGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientMethylpropanediol
SolventTapioca Starch
Cetearyl Alcohol
EmollientIsobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol
BleachingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Chloride
MaskingSodium Sulfate
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantCI 47005
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Cocoglycerides, Alcohol Denat., Distarch Phosphate, Glyceryl Stearate, Methylpropanediol, Tapioca Starch, Cetearyl Alcohol, Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Sulfate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, CI 15985, CI 47005
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantAlcohol
AntimicrobialDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningTapioca Starch
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCocoglycerides
EmollientOctyldodecanol
EmollientIsobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol
BleachingTocopherol
AntioxidantPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Palm Glycerides
EmollientCarrageenan
Trisodium EDTA
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Alcohol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glyceryl Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tapioca Starch, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cocoglycerides, Octyldodecanol, Isobutylamido Thiazolyl Resorcinol, Tocopherol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Carrageenan, Trisodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydroxyacetophenone, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCocoglycerides is made from the mono, di and triglycerides of coconut oil. It is an emollient and emulsifer.
Emollients are a type of moisturizer. They create a thin film on top of the skin. This film prevents moisture from escaping, keeping the skin hydrated.
Emulsifiers prevent ingredients from separating. Examples of this include oils and water, which naturally do not mix. Emulsifiers helps elongate the shelf life of a product. They also help the product stay consistent in texture.
Learn more about CocoglyceridesGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateYou probably know this ingredient as Thiamidol. It is often called the "hydroquinone alternative" because of it's pigment-fighting abilities.
This ingredient is patented by Beiersdorf (the owner of Nivea, Eucerin, and La Prairie).
It works by in inhibiting tyrosinase (the enzyme your melanocytes use to produce melanin) so less pigment ends up deposited in your skin.
Here's something interesting:
Most brightening ingredients you've heard of like kojic acid, arbutin, and even hydroquinone were originally tested on mushroom tyrosinase. And it turns out, mushroom tyrosinase works pretty differently from the human kind.
So Beiersdorf screened 50,000 compounds against actual human tyrosinase, and Thiamidol came out as the strongest. It showed to be more potent than hydroquinone or arbutin at blocking the human enzyme.
It's been shown to fade melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and sun spots at 0.1-0.2% twice daily with visible results in about four weeks. One randomized trial even found 0.2% Thiamidol worked just as well as 4% hydroquinone on melasma but with fewer side effects.
This ingredient is generally well-tolerated and minor irritation has been reported very infrequently.
Be sure to also check out Rucinol, another "hydroquinone alternative".
Learn more about Isobutylamido Thiazolyl ResorcinolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Tapioca starch is a thickening agent and is made from the cassava root, also known as yucca.
According to a manufacturer, it is an excellent talc replacement.
It is gluten-free.
Learn more about Tapioca StarchWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum