What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCalcium Chloride
AstringentCeratonia Siliqua Gum
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingDipropylene Glycol
HumectantMethylpropanediol
SolventSnail Secretion Filtrate
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCitrus Grandis Seed Extract
AstringentBambusa Textilis Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningPinus Palustris Leaf Extract
TonicChondrus Crispus Powder
AbrasiveHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientPEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhellinus Linteus Extract
Skin ConditioningInonotus Obliquus Extract
Skin ConditioningGold
Cosmetic ColorantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningOctapeptide-7
Skin ProtectingSh-Octapeptide-4
AntioxidantSh-Oligopeptide-4
Skin ConditioningSh-Decapeptide-7
AntioxidantSh-Decapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningSh-Pentapeptide-19
Skin ConditioningCaffeoyl Tripeptide-1
AntioxidantHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingSynthetic Fluorphlogopite
Tin Oxide
AbrasiveTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeDisodium EDTA
Parfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Calcium Chloride, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Xanthan Gum, Niacinamide, Dipropylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Snail Secretion Filtrate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Citrus Grandis Seed Extract, Bambusa Textilis Stem Extract, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Chondrus Crispus Powder, Hydrolyzed Collagen, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Inonotus Obliquus Extract, Gold, Adenosine, Octapeptide-7, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Sh-Oligopeptide-4, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Sh-Decapeptide-9, Sh-Pentapeptide-19, Caffeoyl Tripeptide-1, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Tin Oxide, Titanium Dioxide, CI 77491, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantChondrus Crispus Extract
Skin ConditioningCeratonia Siliqua Gum
EmollientCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSucrose
HumectantPotassium Chloride
Allantoin
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCalcium Aluminum Borosilicate
CI 77007
Cosmetic ColorantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningBis-PEG-15 Methyl Ether Dimethicone
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Calcium Lactate
AstringentCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantSilica
AbrasiveMica
Cosmetic ColorantHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingPolyglyceryl-4 Caprate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-6 Caprylate
EmulsifyingDipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline
Skin ConditioningPEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantPalmitic Acid
EmollientParfum
MaskingPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingCaviar Extract
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Glycerin, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Ceratonia Siliqua Gum, Cellulose Gum, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sucrose, Potassium Chloride, Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, CI 77007, Adenosine, Bis-PEG-15 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, Disodium EDTA, Calcium Lactate, CI 77891, Silica, Mica, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Butylene Glycol, Palmitic Acid, Parfum, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Caviar Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopherol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineCeratonia Siliqua Gum is extracted from the seeds of the carob tree. You might know this ingredient as Carob Gum or Locust Bean Gum. It is used to stabilize other ingredients and improve the texture of products.
Carob gum is made up of long-chain polysaccharides. This makes it a natural thickener.
Yes! This ingredient comes from the seeds of a tree. The name 'Locust Bean Gum' can be misleading.
Learn more about Ceratonia Siliqua GumDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.
In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.
The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.
This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.
It's worth being realistic here:
Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).
However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.
Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).
Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.
If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.
The results are varied.
A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.
However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.
Further studies are needed at this time.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed CollagenParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPeg-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil comes from hydrogenated castor oil. It is a solubilizer and emulsifier.
As a solubilizer, it helps dissolve ingredients into a water-based version. It is also an emulsifer. Emulsifier help prevent oils and water from separating. Both these properties help create evenly-spread and uniform products.
Basically, Peg-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil helps hold ingredients together.
Learn more about PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor OilPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum