What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingParaffin
PerfumingCera Microcristallina
Emulsion StabilisingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEuphorbia Cerifera Wax
Magnesium Stearate
Cosmetic ColorantMagnesium Sulfate
Tocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPropylene Glycol
HumectantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningSorbitol
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantCollagen Amino Acids
MoisturisingBHT
AntioxidantPantolactone
HumectantWater, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glycerin, Isopropyl Myristate, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Paraffin, Cera Microcristallina, Panthenol, Phenoxyethanol, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Magnesium Stearate, Magnesium Sulfate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propylene Glycol, Retinyl Palmitate, Sorbitol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Collagen Amino Acids, BHT, Pantolactone
Water
Skin ConditioningDibutyl Adipate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingPropylheptyl Caprylate
EmollientUrea
BufferingGlycerin
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningC18-36 Acid Triglyceride
EmollientDiethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
UV FilterIsoamyl Laurate
EmollientEthylhexyl Triazone
UV AbsorberSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientTriolein
Skin ConditioningBis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeMagnesium Sulfate
Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone
UV AbsorberPolyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate
EmulsifyingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingSorbitol
HumectantTriethoxycaprylylsilane
Isoamyl Cocoate
Retinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantCollagen Amino Acids
MoisturisingPantolactone
HumectantLactic Acid
BufferingWater, Dibutyl Adipate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Zinc Oxide, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Propylheptyl Caprylate, Urea, Glycerin, Propylene Glycol, Panthenol, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Isoamyl Laurate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Triolein, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Magnesium Sulfate, Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Sorbitol, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Isoamyl Cocoate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Collagen Amino Acids, Pantolactone, Lactic Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Collagen amino acids are naturally found in the outermost layer of your skin.Your body uses amino acids to build collagen and elastin.
Due to their tiny size, amino acids are able to be absorbed into the skin. They mostly play a role in keeping your skin hydrated and reinforcing your NMF (natural moisturizing factors).
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinMagnesium Sulfate is a salt. More specifically, it is an epsom salt, or the bath salt used to help relieve muscle aches.
Despite having ‘sulfate’ in the name, it isn’t a surfactant or cleansing agent like sodium lauryl sulfate. Unlike those sulfates, magnesium sulfate doesn’t have the same cleansing or foaming properties (it's simply a type of salt).
In cosmetics, Magnesium Sulfate is used to thicken a product or help dilute other solids. It is a non-reactive and non-irritating ingredient.
One study shows magnesium deficiency may lead to inflammation of the skin. Applying magnesium topically may help reduce inflammation.
You can find this ingredient in sea water or mineral deposits.
Learn more about Magnesium SulfatePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPantolactone is a synthetically created humectant.
As a humectant, Pantolactone helps draw moisture to the skin. It can help add hydration to your skin.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate isn't fungal acne safe.
Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolRetinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.
This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.
First, Retinyl palmitate is created from palmitic acid and retinol. It is a retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.
This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA retinoic acid. Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen.
Due to this long and ineffective conversion line, the benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated.
Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:
Dermatologists say this ingredient is ineffective because it isn't used in high enough concentrations in cosmetics.
This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.
The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.
While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UV-A, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is safe to use when used correctly.
All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.
Currently, this ingredient is still allowed in cosmetics all over the world. In Canada, cosmetics must have a warning label stating the product to contain Retinyl Palmitate
Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.
Learn more about Retinyl PalmitateSorbitol is a sugar alcohol. It is a hydrating and moisturizing agent created from the reduction process of glucose.
Most sorbitol is usually made from potato starch. It is also found in fruits such as apples and pears.
As a humectant, Sorbitol helps draw water to the skin. This helps keep the skin hydrated. Sorbitol also helps create a thicker texture in products. You might find sorbitol in your toothpaste and other gels.
It is a non-irritating ingredient that is great for those with dry skin.
Sorbitol is a prebiotic. It helps promote the growth of healthy bacteria on your skin. The bacteria on your skin form a microbiome. This microbiome helps protect your skin from infection and harmful bacteria.
Learn more about SorbitolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water