This anti-aging serum is formulated around Copper Tripeptide-1 and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantHydroxyethyl Urea
HumectantPropanediol
SolventDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventEthoxydiglycol
HumectantIsostearyl Isostearate
EmollientPropylene Glycol Caprylate
Skin ConditioningCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-10 Citrulline
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientPEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmulsifyingMethyl Glucose Sesquistearate
EmollientGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentSphingomonas Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Glycerin, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Propanediol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ethoxydiglycol, Isostearyl Isostearate, Propylene Glycol Caprylate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cyclopentasiloxane, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Lecithin, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Gluconolactone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Sphingomonas Ferment Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cellulose Gum, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantLycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
AstringentPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin ConditioningPunica Granatum Extract
AstringentHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingHydrolyzed Manihot Esculenta Tuber Extract
Skin ConditioningCaesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingKappaphycus Alvarezii Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSorbic Acid
PreservativePolyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingPolyvinyl Alcohol
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialWater, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Punica Granatum Extract, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Hydrolyzed Manihot Esculenta Tuber Extract, Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract, Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Potassium Sorbate, Sorbic Acid, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate/Succinate, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinThis synthetic, signal peptide has unique skin conditioning properties in that is a matrikine-mimetic compound.
First of all, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38 is a signal peptide; signal peptides tell the body to create more collagen.
What is a matrikine-mimetic compound?
This peptide has the ability to mimic matrikines in skin. Our skin created matrikines by breaking down matrix proteins into peptides.
Matrikines play a role in:
Though further research is needed, this ingredient seems pretty promising. In one study, women over the age of 40 with visible photoaging used a vitamin C serum with this ingredient for 56 days (15% ascorbid acid, 5 ppm palmitoyl tripeptide‐38). The results found improvement in skin roughness and skin tone.
This peptide is also part of the famous Matrixyl synthe’6, a blend of ingredients that also includes glycerin, water, and hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin.
Learn more about Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.
This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.
It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.
The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.
This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.
Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.
On the fungal acne front:
Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.
Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water