What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Silica
Abrasive
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin Conditioning
C20-40 Alcohols
EmulsifyingTribehenin
Emollient
Vp/Eicosene Copolymer
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Emollient
Disteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Emollient
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Magnesium Oxide
AbsorbentAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
Absorbent
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Shea Butter Ethyl Esters
Emollient
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Glucomannan
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
Buffering
Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Trihydroxystearin
Skin Conditioning
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Magnesium Hydroxide
AbsorbentPropylene Carbonate
SolventCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCoco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyldodecanol, Silica, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, C20-40 Alcohols, Tribehenin, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Magnesium Oxide, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Shea Butter Ethyl Esters, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, Glucomannan, Water, Citric Acid, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Trihydroxystearin, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Magnesium Hydroxide, Propylene Carbonate, CI 77891, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Triheptanoin
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
Emollient
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Masking
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Emulsifying
Disteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin Conditioning
Oryza Sativa Bran Wax
Skin Conditioning
Synthetic Beeswax
Emulsion Stabilising
Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
CI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCoco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triheptanoin, Octyldodecanol, Synthetic Wax, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Oryza Sativa Bran Wax, Synthetic Beeswax, Dilinoleic Acid/Butanediol Copolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Castor Oil/Ipdi Copolymer, Ceramide NP, Tocopherol, CI 77499, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77891
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCi 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77491CI 77492 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a yellow hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created CI 77492 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77492Ci 77499 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It is created from mixing red and black iron oxides. This helps give shades of darkness to a product.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.
It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.
Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.
Learn more about CI 77891Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Learn more about Coco-Caprylate/CaprateDisteardimonium Hectorite comes from the clay mineral named hectorite. It is used to add thickness to a product.
It can also help stabilize a product by helping to disperse other ingredients.
Hectorite is a rare, white clay mineral.
Learn more about Disteardimonium HectoriteHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax is created from the common sunflower.
Sunflower seed wax is made up of long chain non-glyceride esters, a small amount of fatty alcohols, and fatty acids.
This ingredient is often used to enhance the texture of products. The fatty acid properties also help hydrate the skin.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed WaxOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl Acetate
