What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientBrassica Campestris Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningTriticum Vulgare Germ Oil
EmollientLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialLinalool
PerfumingEugenol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantBHT
AntioxidantSesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Parfum, Benzyl Benzoate, Linalool, Eugenol, Limonene, Tocopheryl Acetate, BHT
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCannabis Sativa Seed Oil
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingCannabis Sativa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
AntioxidantMoringa Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientSqualane
EmollientHelichrysum Italicum Flower Oil
MaskingAdansonia Digitata Oil
EmollientMagnesium Chloride
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingLavandula Hybrida Oil
EmollientLitsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
MaskingJuniperus Virginiana Wood Oil
PerfumingPelargonium Graveolens Oil
MaskingApium Graveolens Seed Oil
PerfumingCinnamomum Cassia Leaf Oil
MaskingCitrus Nobilis Peel Oil
MaskingEugenia Caryophyllus Bud Oil
MaskingMentha Viridis Leaf Oil
AstringentPogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil
MaskingCananga Odorata Flower Oil
MaskingIllicium Verum Leaf Oil
MaskingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
MaskingCinnamal
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingEugenol
PerfumingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Cannabis Sativa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Squalane, Helichrysum Italicum Flower Oil, Adansonia Digitata Oil, Magnesium Chloride, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Juniperus Virginiana Wood Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Apium Graveolens Seed Oil, Cinnamomum Cassia Leaf Oil, Citrus Nobilis Peel Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus Bud Oil, Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Illicium Verum Leaf Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Cinnamal, Limonene, Eugenol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Eugenol is the phenylpropanoid that gives cloves their smell, and it makes up roughly 78% of clove essential oil. It also shows up in cinnamon leaf, bay, nutmeg, and basil, or made synthetically.
Officially, its CosIng functions are perfuming and tonic. So its job in a formula is almost always scent rather than skin benefit.
There's some lab work behind its reputation; in one study, it acted as an antioxidant and calmed inflammation in human immune cells. But it also killed skin cells (keratinocytes) in a dish.
It stopped damaging those cells and still reduced swelling in mice when the researchers wrapped it in tiny capsules to slow its release.
One study that is quoted out of context frequently: clove oil killed human skin and blood vessel cells at levels as low as 0.03%, and about 73% of that came down to eugenol. Keep in mind those were bare cells sitting in a dish with no skin barrier in the way (which is a lot harsher than what happens on your actual face).
On concentrations, it is restricted to 0.64% in leave-on products + body products, 0.21% in baby + lip products, 2.5% in fine fragrance and 4.9% in rinse-off. Real formulas usually land far below those caps.
Allergy is the actual story with this ingredient. It is one of the eight markers dermatologists use for allergy testing, and the EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
It is also a prohapten, meaning it needs enzymatic activation in skin to become allergenic, so sensitivity varies between people.
Rates are modest but not trivial: in a classic EECDRG multicentre study, 13 of about 1,300 patch-tested patients reacted to eugenol, and in eugenol-allergic subjects the lowest positive patch test concentration was 0.031%, with 56% reacting in a 21-day repeated open application test at 0.5% to 2.7%.
Normal use levels are generally fine if you are not already sensitized.
Learn more about EugenolHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilLimonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneThis ingredient is also known as olive oil. It has been used in skincare for centuries and science largely backs up its reputation as a nourishing emollient.
The main components of olive oil are oleic acid (55-83%), linoleic acid (3.5-20%), and palmitic acid (7-20%). Oleic acid promotes skin regeneration and helps regulate inflammatory responses.
Squalene is also naturally present in olive oil and exhibits moisturizing and antioxidant properties.
The polyphenols in olive oil also show anti-aging promise; one clinical study found a measurable improvement in skin appearance after 30 days of topical serum use.
Just be aware that applying olive oil directly to skin can weaken the barrier and cause redness. One study with volunteers found even people without sensitive skin experienced a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema.
It's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted formula (instead of putting it on skin directly from the bottle).
Because it has a 0-2 on the comedogenic scale, it is low risk for acne-prone skin. Just remember the overall formulation of a product matters more than a few ingredients with comedogenic ratings.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because of the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fall within the C11-24 fatty acid range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize to grow.
Overall, olive oil is a well-studied and nourishing skincare ingredient.
Learn more about Olea Europaea Fruit OilThis ingredient is also known as Apricot kernel oil, and it comes form the seed kernels of apricot (a member of the Rosaceae family like almond, peach, cherry, and plum).
It's mostly made up of triglycerides: oleic acid (43.9-78.5%), linoleic acid (9.7-37%), and palmitic acid (4.9-7.3%). These numbers vary depending on the variety of Prunus and the ripeness of the fruit; oleic tends to go up at late harvest while linoleic goes down.
Vitamin E is also prevalent in this ingredient and the most dominant form is gamma-tocopherol.
These compounds give the ingredient emollient and skin conditioning properties that keep the skin soft and hydrated.
There's no regulatory maximum cap for this ingredient so you'll see it across a huge concentration range (100% as a single ingredient facial oil).
On allergies: refined cosmetic-grade oils carry almost no protein. The CIR notes that people allergic to a food generally do not react to the refined oil because the allergenic protein does not partition into it (though cold-pressed grades retain more).
However, it's worth patch testing if you have a stone fruit or tree nut allergy because manufacturer processes for removing the protein can vary.
Malassezia lacks the cytosolic fatty acid synthase gene so the yeast cannot make palmitate on its own and instead uses lipases and phospholipases to release fatty acids from host lipids. Since apricot kernel oil is entirely C16-18 (right in the usable range of C11-24), this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Old rabbit-ear testing did assign this ingredient a comedogenic rating of 1-2. The original author has stated that testing on rabbit ears is not an ideal model for human comedogenicity.
Human testing has proved that any finished product with a comedogenic ingredient won't automatically make you break out; it really comes down to concentration, formula, and your skin.
Just know high-oleic oils tend to feel heavier on oily skin so it's worth patch testing.
Learn more about Prunus Armeniaca Kernel OilRosa Canina Fruit Oil is a non-fragrant plant oil that has earned its skincare reputation through chemistry.
It's dominated by fatty acids like linoleic acid (~35-55%), alpha-linolenic acid (~17-27%), and oleic acid (~14-22%). This is the exact profile that supports skin barrier, locks in hydration, and calms inflammation.
A 2024 review found evidence for the Rosa canina species supports its use for scarring, hyperpigmentation, wrinkles, and atopic dermatitis; this was mostly credited to its vitamin C content and fatty acid composition as the primary active mechanisms.
You might see this ingredient marketed as a "natural retinol". Some rosehip seed oils contains traces of all-trans-retinoic acid but these trace amounts are far below biologically active levels.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel has deemed this ingredient safe and it's well-tolerated.
Fungal acne: The fatty acids of this oil fall into the C11-24 range that Malassezia yeast can metabolize, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Rosa Canina Fruit OilJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilVitis Vinifera Seed Oil comes from the grape vine. Grape seeds are a byproduct of creating grape juice or wine.
The components of grape seeds have many skin benefits. Research has found it to be antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. It also contains many potent antioxidants such as Vitamin E , Vitamin C, proanthocyanidins, polyphenols, flavonoids, and anthocyanins. Proanthocyanidin has been shown to help even out skin tone.
Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radicals by donating extra electrons. Grape seed extract may help reduce the signs of aging.
The antimicrobial properties of grape seed may help treat acne. However, more research is needed to support this claim.
Grape seed has also been found to help absorb UV rays. Grape seed extract should not replace your sunscreen.
The fatty acids of grape seed oil give it emollient properties. Emollients help soothe and soften your skin by creating a film. This film traps moisture within, keeping your skin hydrated.
Learn more about Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil