innisfree Youth Enhancing Treatment Essence with Black Tea + Peptides Versus Skinmade The Signature Essence
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water 95%
MaskingWater
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantNiacinamide
Smoothing1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentEctoin
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
Humectant3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningGlutathione
Mannitol
HumectantSaccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantCentella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycine Max Polypeptide
Skin ConditioningArginine/Lysine Polypeptide
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAcetyl Heptapeptide-4
HumectantSorbic Acid
PreservativeHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingAcetyl Octapeptide-3
HumectantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Water 95%, Water, Propanediol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Dextrin, Ectoin, Hyaluronic Acid, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Glutathione, Mannitol, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Butylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Glycine Max Polypeptide, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Copper Tripeptide-1, Disodium EDTA, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Caprylyl Glycol, Acetyl Heptapeptide-4, Sorbic Acid, Hexapeptide-9, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Hydroxide, Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate
HumectantSaccharomyces/Panax Ginseng Root Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Centella Asiatica Extract Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces Lysate
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment Lysate Filtrate
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Rye Flour Ferment
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Soybean Extract Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Ganoderma Lucidum Extract/Lentinus Edodes Extract Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Algae Extract Ferment
Skin Protecting3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningGlucomannan
Skin ConditioningSorbitol
HumectantXylitol
HumectantAcetyl Glucosamine
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningGlutathione
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
HumectantSh-Polypeptide-121
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Antimicrobial1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantSodium Citrate
BufferingHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientBis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
EmollientGalactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Saccharomyces/Panax Ginseng Root Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus/Centella Asiatica Extract Ferment Filtrate, Water, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Saccharomyces Lysate, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate Filtrate, Lactobacillus/Rye Flour Ferment, Lactobacillus/Soybean Extract Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus/Ganoderma Lucidum Extract/Lentinus Edodes Extract Ferment Filtrate, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Lactobacillus/Algae Extract Ferment, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Glucomannan, Sorbitol, Xylitol, Acetyl Glucosamine, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Glutathione, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Sh-Polypeptide-121, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Citrate, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Citric Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Caprylyl Glycol, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidAcetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".
It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.
The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.
So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.
A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:
While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).
Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolGlutathione is a tiny protein-like molecule (a "tripeptide" build from 3 amino acids: glycine, cysteine, and glutamic acid) that your body already makes on its own.
Inside your body, it acts as one of the skin's main antioxidants that help fight against free radicals.
In skincare, it's best known as a brightening ingredient that slows down tyrosinase, the key enzyme that makes skin pigment. It also nudges the skin toward making a lighter type of pigment instead of a darker one.
This is why you'll see it in products aimed at dark spots and uneven tone.
A small number of real human trials have found a topical glutathione lotion:
The honest caveat is that the current evidence is still thin (few studies, small groups, short timelines). Glutathione also doesn't absorb into skin very easily so results tend to be modest and fade if you stop using it.
One thing worth clearing up:
The scary side effects you may have heard about come from glutathione injected intravenously, which has real safety concerns. Applying it topically is a completely different thing and has a clean track record.
Most human studies used it around 2% (as Glutathione or Glutathione Disulfide) and a 2% oxidized glutathione lotion and a 2% S-acyl glutathione cream are the concentrations with actual clinical data behind them.
There's no established "ideal" percentage yet but 1-2% is the evidence-backed range.
Allergy-wise, there is very low risk for this ingredient; it was well-tolerated across the topical trials. Only one participant had mild temporary redness that cleared up on its own and another study reported no adverse reactions at all.
One trial had ~10% of users drop out for irritation was using a combination cream that also had 10% azelaic acid so the irritation likely wasn't from the glutathione. There's no notable contact-allergy signal for topical glutathione in the literature but patch-testing before first use is still sensible for those with sensitive skin.
Learn more about GlutathioneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water