hyphen 2% Cica Exosomes Hydra Barrier Oil-Free Moisturizer Versus Ipca Acne-Oc Sebum Regulating Moisturizer
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Panthenol to strengthen the skin barrier and balance excess oil.
This oil-control moisturizer is formulated around Zingiber Officinale Root Extract and Zinc PCA to balance excess oil and clear breakouts.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingZinc PCA
HumectantMagnesium Aspartate
Skin ConditioningZinc Gluconate
Skin ConditioningCopper Gluconate
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Glucoside
HumectantTanacetum Vulgare Flower Extract
PerfumingIsohexadecane
EmollientPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingButylene Glycol
HumectantXanthan Gum
Emulsifying1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Niacinamide, Panthenol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Centella Asiatica Extract, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Zinc PCA, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Glyceryl Glucoside, Tanacetum Vulgare Flower Extract, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 60, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Acacia Senegal Gum, Butylene Glycol, Xanthan Gum, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dimethicone, Carbomer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Silica, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Hydroxide, Phenoxyethanol
Water
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPistacia Lentiscus Gum
MaskingLecithin
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantAlcohol
AntimicrobialButylene Glycol
HumectantCinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract
MaskingZingiber Officinale Root Extract
MaskingSanguisorba Officinalis Root Extract
CleansingSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Propanediol
SolventTapioca Starch
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningZinc PCA
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Parfum
MaskingWater, Betaine, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pistacia Lentiscus Gum, Lecithin, Glycerin, Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Sanguisorba Officinalis Root Extract, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Propanediol, Tapioca Starch, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Phospholipids, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Zinc PCA, Phenoxyethanol, Retinyl Palmitate, Disodium EDTA, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterZinc PCA is a clever two-in-one molecule: the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA).
Think of it as two useful things bonded together; the PCA half is one of your skin's own natural moisturizing factors (NMF) so it helps hold water in the upper layers. On the other hand, the zinc half does the heavy lifting on oil and bacteria.
The zinc part slows down an enzyme that turns testosterone into DHT, the hormone that tells your oil glands to pump out more sebum. Less of that signal means less oil. It also gently fights acne-causing bacteria and soothes redness/irritation.
This is why Zinc PCA often shows up in products for oily, breakout-prone skin and greasy scalps.
One lab study also hinted it might have a small anti-aging perk because it seemed to protect collagen from UVA damage and even helped the skin make a bit more of it. That last bit is still early research done in a dish and not real skin, so take it as a nice bonus rather than a promise for now.
As for scar healing, the picture is more "maybe" than a firm yes. Zinc itself plays a real role in wound repair because it is a cofactor for the enzymes involved in collagen building, calming inflammation, and helping new skin cells cover a wound. Lower zinc levels are also linked to slower healing.
Most of the scar healing research is on zinc oxide or oral zinc rather than zinc PCA specifically, with a focus on healing fresh wounds instead of scars that are already there.
Direct evidence that zinc PCA improves the look of established scars is still limited at this time. Though it would be fair to say zinc PCA supports the general skin-repair environment thanks to its zinc content .
This ingredient is water-soluble and plays nicely with other actives like niacinamide and salicylic acid. It works best at mildly acidic formulas (~4-6 pH) and is effective at low levels. Around 0.1% is enough to be active and finished products commonly use it anywhere up to 4%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-drama multitasker that suits oily and acne-prone skin.
Learn more about Zinc PCA