What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Salicylic Acid
Masking
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Perfuming
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Water
Skin ConditioningMyristic Acid
Cleansing
Glycerin
Humectant
Potassium Hydroxide
BufferingPropylene Glycol
Humectant
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Lauric Acid
Cleansing
PEG-75
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract
CleansingOriganum Majorana Leaf Extract
AntiseborrhoeicOcimum Basilicum Leaf
TonicLepidium Meyenii Root Extract
Skin ConditioningBambusa Vulgaris Water
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
Antioxidant
Poloxamer 184
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Maltodextrin
Absorbent
Parfum
Masking
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Hexyl Cinnamal
Perfuming
Limonene
Perfuming
Linalool
Perfuming
Benzyl Benzoate
Antimicrobial
Salicylic Acid, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Water, Myristic Acid, Glycerin, Potassium Hydroxide, Propylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Lauric Acid, PEG-75, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Origanum Majorana Leaf Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Leaf, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Water, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Poloxamer 184, Disodium EDTA, Maltodextrin, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool, Benzyl Benzoate
Water
Skin ConditioningMyristic Acid
Cleansing
Glycerin
Humectant
Methylpropanediol
SolventPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingCoco-Glucoside
Cleansing
Lauric Acid
Cleansing
Palmitic Acid
Emollient
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
Perfuming
Salicylic Acid
Masking
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Melaleuca Alternifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water
AntimicrobialMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
Antioxidant
Centella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Beta-Glucan
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Phytate
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Water, Myristic Acid, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Potassium Hydroxide, Coco-Glucoside, Lauric Acid, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Salicylic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Melaleuca Alternifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Water, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Centella Asiatica Extract, Sorbitan Olivate, Panthenol, Beta-Glucan, Sodium Phytate, 1,2-Hexanediol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateLauric Acid is a saturated fatty acid naturally found in coconut oil, palm kernel oil, and even breast milk.
In cosmetics, it is an:
Lab studies have found that lauric acid is surprisingly good at killing acne-causing bacteria. However, these tests were done on bacteria in a petri dish and not on real skin, so we can't say for certain it works the same in a formulation on a real face.
The comedogenic rating of 4 comes from the 1972 rabbit ear model using undiluted ingredients. Comedogenicity is highly individual and one comedogenic ingredient cannot predict how a formula will behave on skin.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe and research has confirmed Malassezia can use it as a food source.
Learn more about Lauric AcidMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract comes from the Tea Tree, Melaleuca alternifolia, Myrtaceae. This tea tree is native to Australia.
Tea Leaf extract contains antimicrobial and anti-acne properties.
This ingredient has perfuming properties and contains linalool and limonene. These fragrance and terpinen components can cause skin sensitivity.
Learn more about the benefits of Tea Tree Oil here.
Learn more about Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf ExtractThis ingredient is also known as tea tree oil. It has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.
Tea tree oil is a complex lipophilic (fat-loving) oil that contains around 100 compounds with terpinen-4-ol being the most abundant (~40%).
Terpinen-4-ol is responsible for tea tree oil's broad-spectrum antimicrobial activity and makes it a well-researched option for acne.
Clinical studies support 5% tea tree oil as an effective topical treatment for mild to moderate acne. A study with 124 patients compared 5% tea tree oil gel to 5% benzoyl peroxide and both reduced acne (though tea tree oil worked more slowly).
Besides acne, it is also seen in anti-dandruff shampoos and scalp treatments for it's antimicrobial and anti-seborrheic properties.
Safety-wise, the allergic potential of low concentrations on healthy skin is considered low. However, oxidized (old or improperly stored) tea tree oil is a stronger sensitizer.
Irritation can also occur if using the undiluted oil on skin; it's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted cosmetic formula. This is because regulations require tea tree oil in cosmetics to be stabilized to prevent degradation.
This ingredient has been deemed safe up to 2% in shampoo, 1% in cleansers, and 0.1% in face cream by the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS).
There is some lab evidence that tea tree oil is antifungal against Malassezia, but it is a supportive option at best and not a replacement for proven antifungal treatments.
Learn more about Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf OilMyristic Acid, aka tetradecanoic acid, is a naturally occurring fatty acid found in coconut oil and palm oil.
In skincare, it is an:
Research indicates that this ingredient posts a low risk of irritation and sensitization.
Since myristic acid is a C14 fatty acid, it falls within the range that Malassezia can metabolize, and therefore not fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Myristic AcidPotassium hydroxide is commonly known as caustic potash. It is used to fix the pH of a product or as a cleaning agent in soap. In cleansers, it is used for the saponification of oils.
Sapnification is the process of creating fatty acid metal salts from triglycerides and a strong base. During this process, Potassium Hydroxide is used up and is not present in the final product.
Using high concentrations of Potassium Hydroxide have shown to irritate the skin.
Learn more about Potassium HydroxideSalicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, itβs still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Learn more about Salicylic AcidStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
