What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Dimethicone
Emollient
Cyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Caprylyl Methicone
Skin Conditioning
Dimethiconol
Emollient
Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion Stabilising
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin Conditioning
Paphiopedilum Maudiae Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin Conditioning
Bisabolol
Antioxidant
Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Masking
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Dimethyl Isosorbide
SolventEthylhexyl Cocoate
Emollient
Glyceryl Linoleate
Emollient
Glyceryl Linolenate
Emollient
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Cholesterol
Emollient
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Caprylyl Methicone, Dimethiconol, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Paphiopedilum Maudiae Flower Extract, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Bisabolol, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Glyceryl Linolenate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cholesterol, Ceramide NP, Phenoxyethanol
Cyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Isododecane
EmollientDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion Stabilising
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
EmollientCyclohexasiloxane
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Retinyl Palmitate
Skin Conditioning
Retinol
Skin Conditioning
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Astaxanthin
Skin Conditioning
Bisabolol
Antioxidant
Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
Masking
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Salix Alba Bark Extract
Astringent
Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Antimicrobial
Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
Skin Conditioning
Calluna Vulgaris Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningVaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
AstringentRubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
AstringentBetula Alba Bark Extract
Masking
Glycine Soja Oil
Emollient
Silica
Abrasive
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Cyclopentasiloxane, Isododecane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Retinol, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Astaxanthin, Bisabolol, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Calluna Vulgaris Flower Extract, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Betula Alba Bark Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Silica, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.
It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.
A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.
In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.
You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.
Learn more about BisabololCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.
Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.
The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics
There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.
Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.
The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneDimethicone Crosspolymer is a silicone created by modifying dimethicone with hydrocarbon side chains. Due to its large size, it does not penetrate skin. It is considered non-occlusive.
Dimethicone Crosspolymer is used to stabilize and thicken products. It also helps give products a silky feel.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.
THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).
Because it’s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skin’s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.
Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when it’s stressed from pollution or sun.
Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? You’ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.
A note on THD: It’s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).
While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.
THD is pretty stable, but it’s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113°F / 45°C) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Learn more about Tetrahexyldecyl AscorbateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl Acetate
