What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDihydroxyacetone
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingTrideceth-9
EmulsifyingLotus Maritimus Flower/Leaf Extract
AntioxidantMusa Sapientum Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCarica Papaya Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
EmollientFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantGarcinia Mangostana Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMangifera Indica Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Seed Extract
AntioxidantErythrulose
TanningCoconut Oil Glycereth-8 Esters
CleansingHydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Cocoyl Glutamate
CleansingPropylene Glycol
HumectantParfum
MaskingSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeCitric Acid
BufferingCI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Dihydroxyacetone, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Propanediol, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Trideceth-9, Lotus Maritimus Flower/Leaf Extract, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Garcinia Mangostana Fruit Extract, Mangifera Indica Fruit Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Erythrulose, Coconut Oil Glycereth-8 Esters, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate, Propylene Glycol, Parfum, Sodium Metabisulfite, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, CI 14700, CI 19140, CI 42090
Water
Skin ConditioningDihydroxyacetone
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantEthoxydiglycol
HumectantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantRubus Idaeus Seed Oil
EmollientHydrolyzed Silk
HumectantLecithin
EmollientCaffeine
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Carnitine
Skin ConditioningPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingGlycereth-26
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingButylphenyl Methylpropional
PerfumingTetrasodium EDTA
Benzoic Acid
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeWater, Dihydroxyacetone, Propylene Glycol, Glycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Rubus Idaeus Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Silk, Lecithin, Caffeine, Palmitoyl Carnitine, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glycereth-26, Panthenol, Parfum, Limonene, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Salicylate, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Tetrasodium EDTA, Benzoic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Dehydroacetic Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Dihydroxyacetone, or DHA, is the active ingredient in self-tanners.
It's a simply sugar that reacts with the free amino acids in your outermost layer of skin to produce brown-colored compounds called melanoidins.
DHA does not penetrate living skin cells, does not interact with melanocytes, and does not affect actualy melanin production.
There's a "safety controversy" that largely stems from misinterpreted studies:
Once concern is that DHA can generate unstable molecules that can damage cells (free radicals) when exposed to sunlight. This only happens in the outermost layer of dead skin cells and wearing SPF on top takes care of it.
The DNA damage claim comes from lab studies that doused living skin cells in much higher concentrations of DHA than you'd ever find in a self-tanner. That's not really a meaningful comparison to putting self-tanning lotion on your skin.
Regulatory bodies around the world, including the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) and the U.S. FDA consider it safe for use in cosmetics when applied topically (maximum 10%, and most self-tanners contain between 3-5%).
Learn more about DihydroxyacetoneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is an emulsifier derived from castor oil.
As an emulsifying agent, it helps other ingredients like fragrances and fat-soluble vitamins dissolve cohesively.
Due to its large molecule size, it doesn't penetrate beyond the skin's surface.
This ingredient has a solid regulatory track record; the CIR Expert Panel first concluded it was safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 100% in 1997. A 2012 reassessment reaffirmed that finding. Safety studies have also found no irritation or evidence of toxicity.
A 2019 study did find this ingredient to grow Malassezia, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilPropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water