What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialPvp
Emulsion StabilisingPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingPropylene Glycol
HumectantTriethanolamine
BufferingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeAcrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer
Parfum
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicLimonene
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingZinc PCA
HumectantSafflower Glucoside
Coumarin
PerfumingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingAmyl Cinnamal
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingIsoeugenol
PerfumingAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCinnamyl Alcohol
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Citrate
BufferingWater, Alcohol Denat., Pvp, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Propylene Glycol, Triethanolamine, Phenoxyethanol, Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer, Parfum, Caprylyl Glycol, Biotin, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Zinc PCA, Safflower Glucoside, Coumarin, Benzyl Alcohol, Linalool, Amyl Cinnamal, Geraniol, Isoeugenol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Hydroxycitronellal, Benzyl Benzoate, Cinnamyl Alcohol, Citronellol, Tocopherol, Sodium Citrate
Water
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeAmodimethicone
Quaternium-80
Cetrimonium Chloride
AntimicrobialIsopropyl Alcohol
SolventPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPvp
Emulsion StabilisingParfum
MaskingMethylparaben
PreservativeTrideceth-12
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
ChelatingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingAmyl Cinnamal
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingBHT
AntioxidantWater, Propylene Glycol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Amodimethicone, Quaternium-80, Cetrimonium Chloride, Isopropyl Alcohol, Panthenol, Pvp, Parfum, Methylparaben, Trideceth-12, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Citric Acid, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Salicylate, Linalool, Citronellol, Hydroxycitronellal, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone, Amyl Cinnamal, Geraniol, BHT
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone is a fragrance. It can be synthetically created or naturally occurring.
The scent of Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone is described as "flowery" but can also be "woody".
Naturally occurring Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone may be found in Saccharomyces cerevisiae, or the yeast used to make wine and bread.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about Alpha-Isomethyl IononeAmyl Cinnamal is a synthetically produced fragrance. Its scent is reminiscent of jasmine flowers.
Amyl Cinnamal is a known EU allergen. This means it is known to cause skin sensitivity and allergies.
Citronellol is a naturally occurring alcohol found in Rose and Geranium oils. In cosmetics, it functions purely as a fragrance ingredient.
The scent of this ingredient is described as "fresh, rosey, and citrusy".
Typical use levels are very low since the total fragrance load in a product is usually well under 1% and citronellol is only a small fraction of that.
The EU asks brands to name it on the label once it goes above 0.001% in leave-on products of 0.01% in rinse-off ones.
It is one of the EU's labeled fragrance allergens but real-world patch testing has shown it to be fairly weak and an infrequent allergen; positive reactions land around 0.1-0.9% of patients across recent European dermatitis clinic studies.
The bigger nuance is oxidation. Citronellol forms hydroperoxides when it reacts with air. These hydroperoxides are more sensitizing than the fresh ingredient, and patch test studies confirmed oxidized Citronellol causes more reactions than purified.
This means good packaging and freshness matter more than the molecule itself.
Fragrance can be irritating to very reactive or compromised skin, so people with sensitive skin may still prefer to skip it.
Learn more about CitronellolGeraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.
Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.
Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.
Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.
Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.
Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.
2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-
Learn more about GeraniolHexyl Cinnamal is a fragrance ingredient with a similar scent to jasmine. It can be naturally found in chamomile essential oil.
This ingredient is a known EU allergen and may sensitize the skin. The EU requires this ingredient to be listed separately on an ingredients list.
Hexyl Cinnamal is not water soluble but is soluble in oils.
Learn more about Hexyl CinnamalHydroxycitronellal is a fragrance created from citronellal. The smell of hydroxycitronellal is often described as "citrus-like" or "melon-like".
Hydroxycitronellal is a known EU allergen and may cause irritation when applied to the skin.
Linalool is a small, naturally occurring scent molecule found in plants like lavender, coriander, bergamot, and more.
It is one of the two most-used fragrance ingredients in cosmetics and added purely for smell. Since it's not used for a skin benefit, there's no "effective dose". Concentration depends on the fragrance load of the product.
The EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
Fresh linalool is a weak sensitizer but air exposure turns some of it into hydroperoxides, which are strong sensitizers. Those oxidation products are the actual allergy concern.
Patch-test clinics see positive reactions to linalool hydroperoxides in about 4% to 12% of dermatitis patients depending on country and test concentration.
Resassuringly, one analytical study found hydroperoxide levels in real fragranced products to be orders of magnitude below what induced sensitization in animal studies with no evidence of oxidation building up during normal storage.
The practical takeaway is that linalool is fine for most people but worth avoiding if you have a confirmed fragrance contact allergy or a badly compromised barrier.
Products stored a long time after opening are also the high-risk scenario since that is when oxidation happens.
The scent of linalool is described as floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolPvp is a water-soluble synthetic polymer and common hairstyling ingredient. It is a film-forming ingredient and used to "hold" specific shapes of hair.
In cosmetics, PVP helps products like sunscreens and color cosmetics last longer and wear more evenly.
It is less effective in high-humidity. It tends to draw moisture, but this moisture dismantles the structure and "hold".
PVP is generally well tolerated on skin and toxicity studies are negative for dermal irritation.
Learn more about PvpWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water