What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDiheptyl Succinate
EmollientIsodecyl Neopentanoate
EmollientOctyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate
EmollientPolyquaternium-28
Glycerin
HumectantAcrylic Acid/Vp Crosspolymer
SurfactantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningBiphenyl Azepanyl Methanone
Skin ConditioningN-Hydroxysuccinimide
Skin ConditioningNicotiana Benthamiana Octapeptide-30 Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCynara Scolymus Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningDunaliella Salina Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingFructan
Skin ConditioningCaffeine
Skin ConditioningGlucose
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantCapryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantXanthine
Skin ConditioningChrysin
Skin ConditioningPantolactone
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSteareth-20
CleansingPolyglyceryl-3 Stearate
EmulsifyingDecyl Glucoside
CleansingPvm/Ma Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPropanediol
SolventPhenethyl Alcohol
MaskingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Benzyl Alcohol
PerfumingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHyaluronic Acid
HumectantWater, Diheptyl Succinate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Octyldodecyl Stearoyl Stearate, Polyquaternium-28, Glycerin, Acrylic Acid/Vp Crosspolymer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Biphenyl Azepanyl Methanone, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Nicotiana Benthamiana Octapeptide-30 Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Panthenol, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Fructan, Caffeine, Glucose, Tocopherol, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Xanthine, Chrysin, Pantolactone, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Caprylyl Glycol, Steareth-20, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Decyl Glucoside, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Propanediol, Phenethyl Alcohol, Sodium Hydroxide, Disodium EDTA, Benzyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Hyaluronic Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialGlycerin
HumectantC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTribehenin
EmollientHydrolyzed Rice Protein
Skin ConditioningBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingButylene Glycol
HumectantSteareth-20
CleansingHesperidin Methyl Chalcone
AntioxidantCeramide Ng
Skin ConditioningPEG-10 Phytosterol
EmulsifyingDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeGlycine Soja Protein
EmulsifyingSodium Benzoate
MaskingSuperoxide Dismutase
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBenzoic Acid
MaskingSorbic Acid
PreservativeDipeptide-2
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningChrysin
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeChlorhexidine Digluconate
AntimicrobialPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingN-Hydroxysuccinimide
Skin ConditioningSodium Dextran Sulfate
Gel FormingTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Alcohol Denat., Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Xanthan Gum, Tribehenin, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Benzyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Steareth-20, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Ceramide Ng, PEG-10 Phytosterol, Dehydroacetic Acid, Glycine Soja Protein, Sodium Benzoate, Superoxide Dismutase, Phenoxyethanol, Benzoic Acid, Sorbic Acid, Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Chrysin, Carbomer, Potassium Sorbate, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Polysorbate 20, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Tocopherol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Benzyl Alcohol is an aromatic alcohol with several roles: it's a preservative, solvent, and mild fragrance component with a floral scent.
This ingredient has been deemed safe for use in cosmetic formulations at concentrations up to 5%, and up to 10% in hair dyes. You'll typically see 0.5-2% in most rinse-off or leave-on products.
As a preservative, it works by disrupting the membrane of microbial proteins. This helps keep bacteria and fungi from growing in your products.
The sensitization picture is actually quite assuring as well:of nearly 71,000 patients patch tested with benzyl alcohol, only 0.21% showed a positive reaction with most of them being weakly positive.
This led researchers to conclude that benzyl alcohol cannot be regarded as a significant contact allergen.
It is worth noting this ingredient is classified as one of the EU's regulated fragrance allergens and restricted to 1% in finished products.
Labels must also declare it in concentrations above 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
At concentrations around 5%, localized redness and itching can appear as a direct irritant response and not as a true allergic reaction.
Learn more about Benzyl AlcoholButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolWe don't have a description for Chrysin yet.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinWe don't have a description for N-Hydroxysuccinimide yet.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a synthetic peptide. Its main job is to fight what researchers call "inflammaging".
"Inflammaging" is the slow, low-grade chronic inflammation that quietly breaks down collagen as we age.
This ingredient calms down a specific inflammation signal in your skin cells (called IL-6). When left unchecked, this signal triggers enzymes that break down collagen and elastin.
Clinical testing showed statistically significant improvements in:
Studies also found the more of this ingredient used, the more your skin produces Collagen I, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
You'll likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.
A 3% concentration applied twice daily for two months showed meaningful skin rejuvenation results in clinical panels.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 (aka Pal-GHK) is a synthetic signal peptide made of three amino acids attached to palmitic acid.
That fatty acid attachment is the key: it boosts the peptide's ability to penetrate the skin barrier. This puts it closer to the dermal cells where it can actually make a difference.
Once there, it acts as a matrikine, a signaling peptide that prompts fibroblasts to produce more collagen, fibronectin, and hyaluronic acid.
In vitro studies show it can boost collagen production in skin cells even when UV-damaged skin samples were treated with it at a tiny concentration (it almost fully restored dermal collagen at 5ppm). It achieved this at 100x lower concentration than retinoic acid, which needed 500 ppm to do the same thing.
Human clinical data is promising, but modest:
A study of 23 female volunteers found a small but statistically significant increase (~4%) in skin thickness after treatment at 4 ppm.
A separate small trial of 15 women showed statistically significant reductions in wrinkle length, depth, and skin roughness after applying it twice daily for four weeks.
You'll likely see Pal-GHK paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 as part of the Matrixyl 3000 complex.
Fungal acne note:
Usually a palmitic acid component can feed Malassezia in unbound form, but here is is covalently bonded to the peptide. This means it is very difficult for Malassezia to access, and therefore very unlikely to cause fungal acne.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Steareth-20 is an emulsifier and solubilizer. It is created from stearyl alcohol with ~20 units of ethylene oxide to give it a strong preference for water.
As an emulsifier, it helps oil-in-water emulsions like lotions, creams, and cleansers stay stable. It also solubilizes small amounts of oil-loving ingredients (like fragrance) into water-based formulas.
You'll likely find this ingredient with steareth-2 (it's oil-loving sister) where the two work together to give products a cushiony feel.
Typical use levels sit at around 1-5% and this ingredient has been found to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel.
Learn more about Steareth-20Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water