VeraLab Gossip Gloss

The manufacturer also claims this ingredient to be useful in makeup.

In lipstick formulations, this ingredient improves color payoff, reduces pigment settling, and reduces oil bleeding. This ingredient also improves the grip of powder products such as dry shampoos.

Two clinical studies in postmenopausal women found that applying argan oil for 60 days significantly improved skin elasticity and moisturization (reduced transepidermal water loss and increased epidermal water content).

Since it is high in oleic and linoleic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Both of these fall in the C11-C24 range that Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

As an emollient, raspberry seed oil helps hydrate your skin. Emollients prevent moisture from evaporating by creating a film on top.

Preclinical research has found that topical avocado oil increased collagen synthesis and reduced inflammation during wound healing, giving it some skin-repairing credibility.

The unsaponifiable fraction of the oil is also interesting: studies on avocado unsaponifiables showed that it helped skin produce more collagen and other structural compounds that support healing.

The CIR Expert Panel has found this ingredient to be non-irritating in formulations.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. This is because the oleic acid content falls within the range that Malassezia can use as a food source.

This ingredient does have a comedogenic rating of 0-3, but this doesn't mean a formula with this ingredient will clog pores. Human testing has proved that any finished product with a comedogenic ingredient won't automatically make you break out; it really comes down to concentration, formula, and your skin.

Here is the official definition from the The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook:

“Aroma is a term for ingredient labeling used to identify that a product contains a material or combination of materials normally added to a cosmetic to produce or to mask a particular flavor.”

INCI shows the only purpose of aroma to be "flavouring".

However, due to regulation differences, some companies may use aroma in place of parfum.

In Canada, this ingredient only has to be listed in concentrations above 1%.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.

This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.

Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.

This dye is commonly found in makeup because it imparts a vivid color. Some types of this dye change color based on pH level and interaction with moisture:

Your skin has a natural pH of around 4.5 - 5.5.

According to the FDA, CI 45410 is not permitted for use in eye products.

Red 27 is a flourescein dye and commonly used as a fluorescent tracer in medicine.

Those are medium-chain fats which is why it melts fast on skin and feels lighter than stearic-heavy butters like shea or cacao.

In skincare, this butter works as an emollient and a temporary occlusive that helps soften the skin's surface and slows water loss.

Just to be upfront: there's no published human clinical trials on this ingredient and everything known about how it behaves on skin is from the fatty acid composition + general body of data on refined plant oils. At this time, marketing claims about wrinkles, elasticity, or "deep repair" are unsupported.

Industry survey data shows concentrations between 0.001%-7% for leave-on products and rinse-off products are capped around 0.2%.

No one has tested murumuru butter for comedogenicity in humans; the comedogenic ratings floating around trace back to lauric and myristic acid scores from the 1984 rabbit ear assay.

The author of that study later said that testing on rabbit ears is not ideal and human testing found that comedogenic ratings cannot predict how a finished formula will behave. It all comes down to formula, concentration, and your skin.

Malassezia is lipid dependent and feeds on free fatty acids between C11-24 chain lengths. This ingredient is made up entirely of chains in that range, so it may not be fungal acne safe.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has looked at it multiple times and concluded it as safe as used in cosmetics as long as suppliers follow residue limits.

Usage sits anywhere from tiny amounts to about 32%; industry reports show concentrations run from 0.08% to 32% in leave-on products and 0.004% to 29% in rinse off products.

Formulas containing 3.4%-8.97% were found to be not irritating ina nimal testing.

This ingredient does carry a comedogenic rating of 3 from the old rabbit-ear assay. Just remember testing finished products in humans showed that formulas built with "comedogenic" ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic themselves. It's worth patch testing if you're breakout prone, and always listen to your skin.

Since the Malassezia yeast can metabolize the oil's C16-18 fatty acids, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Cottonseed protein is a potent allergy when eaten or inhaled; this ingredient is the oil and not that protein; the protein doesn't usually end up in the refined oil for cosmetic use but it's best to patch-test since manufacturer quality differs around the world. Unrefined or cold-pressed versions of this oil are also more likely to retain protein.

Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.

Clinical studies have found it can reduce water loss and improve smoothness/hydration, particularly in sensitive skin types. Studies also suggest it helps maintain the lipid layer that is compromised in atopic (eczema-prone) skin.

Wound healing studies showed that low-concentration linseed oil formulations (1-5%) produced significant barrier repair, but it should be noted that high concentrations showed diminishing returns.

This ingredient shows up on a lot of "pore-clogging" lists but there's no real evidence behind that. It doesn't even have a comedogenic rating from an actual study; the numbers you'll find online come from blogs citing other blogs.

Ratings for other ingredients mostly come from a 1980s rabbit ear test. This test doesn't translate well to human skin or to real products because the ingredient sits at a much lower percentage.

Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin.

The Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids in the C11-24 range, and this ingredient is basically all C16-18 fatty acids. Therefore, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.