What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether
EmollientPPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Emollient
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Beeswax
Emulsion Stabilising
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Emollient
Silica Silylate
Emollient
Glycine Soja Sterols
Emollient
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
CI 45410
Cosmetic ColorantCI 75120
Cosmetic ColorantTocopherol
Antioxidant
Sodium Saccharin
MaskingHydroxycitronellal
Perfuming
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Linalool
Perfuming
Benzyl Alcohol
Perfuming
Benzyl Salicylate
Perfuming
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Capryloyl Salicylic Acid
Exfoliating
Citric Acid
Buffering
Parfum
Masking
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Octyldodecanol, Beeswax, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Silica Silylate, Glycine Soja Sterols, Pentylene Glycol, CI 45410, CI 75120, Tocopherol, Sodium Saccharin, Hydroxycitronellal, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Linalool, Benzyl Alcohol, Benzyl Salicylate, Caprylyl Glycol, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Citric Acid, Parfum
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether
EmollientPEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether
EmollientOctyldodecanol
Emollient
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Emollient
Squalane
Emollient
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Emollient
Silica Silylate
Emollient
Glycine Soja Sterols
Emollient
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin Conditioning
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Citric Acid
Buffering
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, Octyldodecanol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Squalane, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Silica Silylate, Glycine Soja Sterols, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Pentylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Citric Acid
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycine Soja Sterols are plant-derived fatty alcohols (phytosterols) from soybean.
You can think of them like the plant world's version of cholesterol; they're structurally similar enough to slot into your skin's lipid barrier and help it do its job.
Phytosterols aid skin barrier recovery by traveling deeper into the skin rather than just sitting on top of it. Once inside, they reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and keep skin feeling soft / supple.
Research on phytosterols in keratinocyte and macrophase models has shown meaningful inhibition of pro-inflammatory mediators. This supports their reputation as a calming ingredient for reactive or sensitive skin.
Subjects with soy allergies did not show a reaction to phytosterols in safety tests, but it wouldn't hurt to patch test if you do have a soy allergy.
Fungal acne:
Malassezia uses sterols to build its own cell walls so there's a theoretical concern that it could also make use of sterol ingredients in skincare.
Though no study has actually proven this happens with topical products, we err on the side of caution and list this ingredient as not safe for fungal acne. However, it may not be a trigger for everyone.
Learn more about Glycine Soja SterolsHydrogenated Vegetable Oil is created by adding hydrogen to vegetable oil in order to give it more stability. This process also raises the melting point of vegetable oil. In cosmetics, it is an emollient.
Emollients help soothe and soften the skin. They do this by creating a protective film on your skin. This barrier helps trap moisture and keeps your skin hydrated. Emollients may be effective at treating dry or itchy skin.
The term "Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil" is an umbrella term and can refer to a variety of vegetable oils and blends of: sunflower oil, soybean oil, olive oil, coconut oil, palm oil, and more.
Due to the differences in vegetables, the benefits may vary.
Learn more about Hydrogenated Vegetable OilOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
We don't have a description for PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether yet.
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.
It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.
As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.
This ingredient is oil-soluble.
Learn more about Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl HydroxyhydrocinnamatePentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate is a synthetic emollient and "skin-feel" ingredient that spreads well and leaves a non-sticky finish with high gloss.
In makeup, it also doubles as a pigment-wetting agent for better color payoff.
It's a well-vetted ingredient for safety and does not penetrate into skin due to its large molecule size.
Because it's a long-chain fatty acid ester, this ingredient may not be fungal acne or Malassezia safe.
Learn more about Pentaerythrityl TetraisostearatePentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.
The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.
This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.
Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.
Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.
Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolWe don't have a description for PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether yet.
Silica Silylate is a siloxane polymer, meaning it is made up of silicon and oxygen atoms. It is not soluble in water.
This ingredient is a white powder with oil-absorbing, emollient, and anticaking properties.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about Tocopherol
