What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Prunus Domestica Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water
Skin Conditioning
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Jojoba Esters
Emollient
Caffeine
Skin Conditioning
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera
Emollient
Acacia Senegal Gum
MaskingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
Buffering
Sodium Citrate
BufferingPolyglycerin-3
Humectant
O-Cymen-5-Ol
Antimicrobial
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Water, Pentylene Glycol, Jojoba Esters, Caffeine, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Glyceryl Stearate, Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera, Acacia Senegal Gum, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Polyglycerin-3, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Tocopherol
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Persea Gratissima Oil
Skin Conditioning
Propanediol
Solvent
Glycerin
Humectant
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
Emulsifying
Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters
Skin Conditioning
Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer
Skin Conditioning
Silica
Abrasive
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingBehenyl Alcohol
Emollient
Caffeine
Skin Conditioning
Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingMica
Cosmetic ColorantHydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Squalene
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
Buffering
Sodium Phytate
Phytosteryl Macadamiate
Skin Conditioning
Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract
EmollientCrithmum Maritimum Extract
Skin ConditioningPhytosterols
Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Humectant
Sodium Citrate
BufferingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Persea Gratissima Oil, Propanediol, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Jojoba Oil/Macadamia Seed Oil Esters, Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer, Silica, Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Behenyl Alcohol, Caffeine, Moringa Oil/Hydrogenated Moringa Oil Esters, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Mica, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Squalene, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Sodium Phytate, Phytosteryl Macadamiate, Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Phytosterols, Tocopherol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Sodium Citrate, CI 77891, CI 77491
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.
As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.
Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.
You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.
Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.
Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.
Learn more about CaffeineThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.
The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.
This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.
Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.
Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.
Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolSodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Learn more about Sodium CitrateTocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
