This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ferulic Acid to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Ethoxydiglycol
HumectantButylene Glycol
Humectant
Ferulic Acid
Antimicrobial
Hyaluronic Acid
Humectant
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Humectant
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingSuccinoglycan
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacrylate
Absorbent
Citric Acid
Buffering
Sodium Citrate
BufferingSodium Benzoate
Masking
Potassium Metabisulfite
Preservative
Water
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Niacinamide
Smoothing
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Glycerin
Humectant
Methylpropanediol
SolventSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Citrus Limon Fruit Extract
Masking
Citrus Nobilis Peel Extract
Masking
Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingPanthenol
Skin Conditioning
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Humectant
Tromethamine
BufferingAdenosine
Skin Conditioning
Madecassoside
Antioxidant
Sodium Phytate
Beta-Glucan
Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Linolenic Acid
Cleansing
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingWater, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Citrus Limon Fruit Extract, Citrus Nobilis Peel Extract, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Panthenol, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Tromethamine, Adenosine, Madecassoside, Sodium Phytate, Beta-Glucan, Tocopherol, Linolenic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Carbomer
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolDipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Learn more about Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
