This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Propanediol
Solvent
Ethoxydiglycol
HumectantNiacinamide
Smoothing
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Methylpropanediol
SolventGlycerin
Humectant
Dimethyl Isosorbide
SolventAscorbic Acid
Antioxidant
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Ferulic Acid
Antimicrobial
Gluconolactone
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Benzoate
Masking
Sodium Phytate
Sclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Metabisulfite
Antioxidant
Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate
StabilisingCalcium Gluconate
HumectantSodium Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentCitric Acid
Buffering
Hydrated Silica
Abrasive
Water, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Propanediol, Ethoxydiglycol, Niacinamide, Pentylene Glycol, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Ascorbic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Ferulic Acid, Gluconolactone, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Phytate, Sclerotium Gum, Sodium Metabisulfite, Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate, Calcium Gluconate, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Citric Acid, Hydrated Silica
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emulsifying
Propylene Glycol
Humectant
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Antioxidant
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Sodium Benzoate
Masking
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingNeopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Parfum
Masking
Dipropylene Glycol
HumectantLimonene
Perfuming
Citrus Junos Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Propylene Glycol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Xanthan Gum, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Parfum, Dipropylene Glycol, Limonene, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 42090
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
