What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingBakuchiol
AntimicrobialBorago Officinalis Seed Oil
EmollientGossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientLinum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
PerfumingParfum
MaskingHippophae Rhamnoides Oil
EmollientAlgae Extract
EmollientBrassica Campestris Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialTocopherol
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientLinalool
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingCinnamyl Alcohol
PerfumingPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Bakuchiol, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Parfum, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Algae Extract, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Linalool, Geraniol, Cinnamyl Alcohol
Squalane
EmollientIsopropyl Palmitate
EmollientMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientSesamum Indicum Seed Oil
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingBorago Officinalis Seed Oil
EmollientOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingParfum
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAlgae Extract
EmollientPadina Pavonica Thallus Extract
Skin ConditioningBrassica Campestris Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Extract
AntimicrobialLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCoumarin
PerfumingSqualane, Isopropyl Palmitate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Borago Officinalis Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Parfum, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Algae Extract, Padina Pavonica Thallus Extract, Brassica Campestris Seed Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Extract, Limonene, Linalool, Coumarin
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Algae Extract is a confusing name. This is because algae is an informal term for a group of 30,000 aquatic organisms that can photosynthesize.
The term 'algae extract' can refer to any one, or a blend of, the 30,000 types.
Algae is rich in antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
Algae can also help with soothing and hydrating skin.
Many different types of algae have different benefits.
Learn more about Algae ExtractBorago Officinalis Seed Oil is from the seeds of the starflower plant. This plant grows primarily in Europe.
This oil does not have a scent. It contains fatty acids such as linolenic acid. These fatty acids help keep skin hydrated.
Borago Officinalis Seed Oil is an antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
Learn more about Borago Officinalis Seed OilThis ingredient is also known as rapeseed oil. Rapeseed oil is a lightweight plant oil with a strong fatty acid profile that makes it a great skin conditioner.
It's rich in oleic acid, linoleic acid (LA), and alpha-linoleic acid (ALA). Fatty acids like LA and ALA play an important role in the maintenance of skin barrier function.
They specifically help with reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and supporting the skin's lipid matrix.
Studies show people deficient in essential fatty acids are prone to dermatitis and increased TEWL.
Besides fatty acids, it also contains tocopherols and phytosterols that provide antioxidant support.
Rapeseed oil is composed mostly of C16-18 fatty acids that the Malassezia species can metabolize, making it a potential trigger for fungal acne.
Learn more about Brassica Campestris Seed OilCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolOenothera Biennis Oil (aka Evening Primrose Oil) is a non-fragrant oil from the evening primrose. Like other botanical oils, it is an emollient that helps hydrate and nourish skin.
It has an interesting fatty acid profile: linoleic (70-74%) and γ-linolenic (8-10%), with some amounts ofoleic palmitic, and stearic acids.
The gamma-linoleic acid (GLA) is the headliner here; it's relatively rare in plant oils and acts as a precursor for anti-inflammatory signaling molecules in the skin.
There's a mixed body of clinical research with this ingredient as well, mostly on eczema/atopic dermatitis skin.
Some controlled trials showed improvement in inflammation, dryness, scaling, and overall severity. Other studies and large meta-analysis failed to show a significant effect; the honest takeaway here is "promising but inconsistent" rather than "miracle oil".
On the safety front, this ingredient is found to be safe as used in cosmetics and even has a history of safe food use.
Since this oil is contains oleic acid and palmitic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Oleic Acid sits at C18 and Palmitic acid sits at C16.
In vitro studies have shown that oleic acid and palmitic acid are some of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
Learn more about Oenothera Biennis OilParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumThis ingredient is the oil from the apricot.
Apricot Kernel Oil is an emollient and helps soften skin. This is due to its fatty acid components. Some of these fatty acids include linoleic and oleic acid.
This ingredient also has antioxidant properties from Vitamins A, C, and E. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. Besides being antioxidants, these vitamins provide plenty of skin benefits as well.
Learn more about Prunus Armeniaca Kernel OilJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Fungal acne: The Malassezia yeast is known to metabolize fatty acids in the C11-24 range and jojoba's dominant fatty acid components fall into this range. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about Tocopherol