What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Polybutene
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
Emulsifying
Paraffinum Liquidum
Emollient
Ceresin
Emulsion StabilisingSynthetic Wax
Abrasive
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
UV Absorber
Isononyl Isononanoate
EmollientCera Alba
Emollient
Polyethylene
Abrasive
Octocrylene
UV Absorber
Mica
Cosmetic ColorantStearyl Stearate
Emollient
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Ozokerite
Emulsion StabilisingParfum
Masking
Behenic Acid
Cleansing
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emollient
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningIsopropyl Myristate
Emollient
Petrolatum
Emollient
Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1
Emollient
Titanium Dioxide
Cosmetic Colorant
Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Polybutene, Octyldodecanol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Paraffinum Liquidum, Ceresin, Synthetic Wax, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Isononyl Isononanoate, Cera Alba, Polyethylene, Octocrylene, Mica, Stearyl Stearate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Ozokerite, Parfum, Behenic Acid, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Stearic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Isopropyl Myristate, Petrolatum, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-1, Titanium Dioxide
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cera alba is beeswax, or the wax used by bees to make honeycombs. It is a texture-enhancer and emollient. A study from 2003 found beeswax to be a stronger emollient than ingredients such as petroleum jelly.
As an emollient, beeswax helps hydrate the skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier traps moisture in.
Emulsifiers help prevent ingredients from separating. This helps create consistent texture.
The structure of beeswax is mainly long-chain alcohols and the esters of fatty acids.
There are three types of beeswax: yellow, white, and absolute. Yellow is pure beeswax taken from the honeycomb. White beeswax is created by filtering or bleaching yellow beeswax. Absolute beeswax is created by treating beeswax with alcohol. Beeswax used in cosmetics are purified.
Beeswax has been used throughout history and even in prehistoric times. Some common uses for beeswax still used today are making candles, as a waterproofing agent, and polish for leather.
Beeswax's wax esters are derived primarily from palmitic and oleic acid (C16 and C18:1). Both of these fall within the C11-C24 feeding window.
The Malassezia yeast can potentially cleave these esters and release usable fatty acids, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. However, not everyone will react to this ingredient.
Learn more about Cera AlbaHydrogenated Castor Oil (aka "castor wax") is what you get when castor oil is turned into a wax.
Its dominant fatty acid is ricinoleic acid, giving it both emollient and mild humectant properties.
According to EU CosIng, this ingredient helps soften skin, keep oil and water stay mixed, and thickens products.
Hydrogenated castor oil at 30% did not trigger a positive patch-test reaction and is well-tolerated.
Since this ingredient is based on an 18-carbon fatty acid, it falls into the chain-length range that Malassezia can feed on and may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Hydrogenated Castor OilOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl Acetate
