What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hydroquinone 5%
StabilisingTretinoin 0.03%
Skin ConditioningDexamethasone 0.03%
Propylene Glycol 0.3%
HumectantCetyl Alcohol
EmollientMethyl 2,4-Dihydroxybenzoate
Skin ConditioningPropylparaben
PreservativeBHA
AntioxidantBHT
AntioxidantPEG-40 Glyceryl Stearate
EmulsifyingSodium Cetearyl Sulfate
CleansingParaffin
PerfumingIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientPetrolatum
EmollientEthylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
UV AbsorberButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV AbsorberPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialCamphor
MaskingTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantSorbitol 70%
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantLactic Acid
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Water
Skin ConditioningHydroquinone 5%, Tretinoin 0.03%, Dexamethasone 0.03%, Propylene Glycol 0.3%, Cetyl Alcohol, Methyl 2,4-Dihydroxybenzoate, Propylparaben, BHA, BHT, PEG-40 Glyceryl Stearate, Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate, Paraffin, Isopropyl Myristate, Petrolatum, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Panthenol, Alcohol Denat., Camphor, Titanium Dioxide, Sorbitol 70%, Tocopheryl Acetate, Citric Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Lactic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Water
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.
Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:
Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.
One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.
While vitamin C doesn’t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.
The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.
Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin won’t keep absorbing more once it’s full of vitamin C. This is why more isn’t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations don’t necessarily give extra benefits.
Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.
Learn more about Ascorbic AcidHydroquinone is a classic ingredient dermatologists use to fade dark spots (things like melasma, acne marks, sun spots, and freckles).
It works in two ways:
1. By blocking an enzyme called tyrosinase; your skin uses this to make melanin, or the pigment that causes dark spots.
2. By interfering with the pigment making cells themselves so less pigment shows up over time
Just know this ingredient fades spots near the surface of skin and not the deeper ones. It's usually used at 2-4% / twice a day for 3 months, and ALWAYS with sunscreen.
This ingredient is usually well tolerated with short-term use under medical guidance. But possible reactions include irritation, contact dermatitis, and lightening of the skin around the spot you're treating.
You might hear hydroquinone called "cancer-causing". That concern comes from studies where rats were fed high oral doses; no skin cancer cases have been linked to it after more than 50 years of people putting it on their skin.
Long-term, high-strength, and unsupervised use can lead to a condition called ochronosis. This is where the skin turns blue-grey color and sometimes causes nails to turn dark as well.
The rules around it vary by country.
The EU bans it in regular cosmetics and it is prescription only in the US, EU, Japan, Canada, and Australia. Anything you see on the shelf without a prescription is technically not allowed.
Check out the European alternative to hydroquinone here.
SkinSort would like to remind friends from around the world that all skin tones are beautiful!
Learn more about HydroquinoneIsopropyl Myristate is an emollient, thickening agent, and texture enhancer. It is created from isopropyl alcohol and myristic acid.
It is used to help other ingredients be better absorbed. It is also an emollient and may help soften and hydrate the skin.
The comedogenic rating of this ingredient depends on the concentration. Lower amounts results in a lower rating.
Isopropyl Myristate may not be fungal acne safe. It can potentially worsen acne prone skin.
Learn more about Isopropyl MyristateParaffin is a solid created from petroleum. The term 'paraffin' can also refer to either
petroleum jelly or mineral oil.
It has natural occlusive properties which can worsen oily skin. Due to its petrolatum base, this ingredient is not fungal-acne safe.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterTretinoin is the best retinoid due to its proven skin benefits. It only available with a prescription in many countries.
All retinoids goes through a conversion line until it can become effective. The final step of conversion is retinoic acid; retinoic acid IS Tretinoin.
This is why tretinoin is so effective; it gets to work immediately on the skin.
Research on tretinoin has found it to be incredibly effective for reducing the signs of aging. It helps improve damage from the sun, even the skin tone, and smooth out wrinkles. It is also an effective acne treatment by reducing and balancing out sebum production in pores.
Tretinoin, like other forms of Vitamin A, increases the turnover cycle of skin cells. This helps the skin create newer and healthier skin cells faster.
It can cause irritation, redness, and dry skin because it is considered a "strong" ingredient. Those with sensitive skin should consult a professional about using tretinoin.
Using retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few weeks of use. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
Read about a form of retinoid you can purchase at the store, retinol.
Learn more about Tretinoin