What's inside
What's inside
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientCeteareth-20
CleansingStearyl Alcohol
EmollientPropylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientDiazolidinyl Urea
PreservativePropylene Glycol
HumectantPhenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningAminopropyl Dimethicone
Parfum
MaskingDimethiconol
EmollientBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeCetrimonium Chloride
AntimicrobialDipropylene Glycol
HumectantQuaternium-91
Cetrimonium Methosulfate
AntimicrobialButylphenyl Methylpropional
PerfumingLactic Acid
BufferingMalic Acid
BufferingLinalool
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientIodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
PreservativeGeraniol
PerfumingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Ceteareth-20, Stearyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Diazolidinyl Urea, Propylene Glycol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Parfum, Dimethiconol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetrimonium Chloride, Dipropylene Glycol, Quaternium-91, Cetrimonium Methosulfate, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Lactic Acid, Malic Acid, Linalool, Limonene, Sodium Hydroxide, Hexyl Cinnamal, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Geraniol, Phenoxyethanol
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Parfum
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingPEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
ChelatingHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingTriethanolamine
BufferingVp/Dmapa Acrylates Copolymer
Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
PreservativePanthenol
Skin ConditioningPhenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningBenzalkonium Chloride
AntimicrobialPantolactone
HumectantBenzyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingCitrus Aurantium Peel Oil
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
MaskingEugenol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingLinalyl Acetate
MaskingPinene
MaskingRose Ketone-4
PerfumingTerpineol
MaskingWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Hydroxyethylcellulose, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Disodium EDTA, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Triethanolamine, Vp/Dmapa Acrylates Copolymer, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Panthenol, Phenyl Trimethicone, Benzalkonium Chloride, Pantolactone, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate, Citral, Citronellol, Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Eugenol, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool, Linalyl Acetate, Pinene, Rose Ketone-4, Terpineol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is a preservative and often used for it's anti-static properties. You'll most likely see this ingredient in hair conditioners.
It does not cause irritation or sensitization in leave-on products at 1-5%.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholGeraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.
Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.
Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.
Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.
Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.
Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.
2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-
Learn more about GeraniolHexyl Cinnamal is a fragrance ingredient with a similar scent to jasmine. It can be naturally found in chamomile essential oil.
This ingredient is a known EU allergen and may sensitize the skin. The EU requires this ingredient to be listed separately on an ingredients list.
Hexyl Cinnamal is not water soluble but is soluble in oils.
Learn more about Hexyl CinnamalIodopropynyl Butylcarbamate (IPBC) is a preservative that is especially good at getting fungi and mold out of your cosmetics.
IPBC works by leveraging the antimicrobial properties of its iodine containing structure. Iodine has been used as a germicide since the late 1800s and IPBC is a more refined and stable derivative of it.
It is typically used at very low levels in cosmetics, with most formulations using 0.0125% or less (well below its approved maximum).
In the EU, IPBC concentration limits are set at 0.02% in rinse-off products and 0.01% in leave-on products.
Though IPBC is a relatively uncommon contact allergen, patch testing studies show positive reaction rates ranging from 0.3%-0.9% of patients tested. This is still quite low compared to preservatives like methylisothiazolinone which sits at around 4-5%.
Researchers note that existing iodine sensitives or rubber allergies may be the cause of this as IPBC shares a structure with both thiuram (used in rubber) and iodine.
Be sure to patch test if you are unsure and speak with a medical professional about using this ingredient.
Learn more about Iodopropynyl ButylcarbamateLimonene is the compound that gives citrus peel its smell.
In skincare, it shows up as a standalone fragrance ingredient or as a natural compound of citrus and other essential oils.
You'll typically see this ingredient used in very small amounts; anything above 0.001% in a leave-on product or 0.01% in a rinse-off has to be named on the label in the EU. The citrus oils that carry it sit around 0.5-1% in a finished formula.
Fresh limonene is a weak allergen; the real issue is that it slowly reacts with air and then breaks down from oxidation to create hydroperoxides (which are strong sensitizers). This is why suppliers are required to keep the peroxide value below 20 mmol.
Positive reactions in people being investigated for eczema vary:
It's worth skipping if you have a known fragrance allergy or a compromised barrier, but the risk is low for most people.
Older or long-opened products are also more likely to bother you than fresh ones due to oxidation.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a small, naturally occurring scent molecule found in plants like lavender, coriander, bergamot, and more.
It is one of the two most-used fragrance ingredients in cosmetics and added purely for smell. Since it's not used for a skin benefit, there's no "effective dose". Concentration depends on the fragrance load of the product.
The EU requires it to be named on the label above 0.001% in leave-on and 0.01% in rinse-off products.
Fresh linalool is a weak sensitizer but air exposure turns some of it into hydroperoxides, which are strong sensitizers. Those oxidation products are the actual allergy concern.
Patch-test clinics see positive reactions to linalool hydroperoxides in about 4% to 12% of dermatitis patients depending on country and test concentration.
Resassuringly, one analytical study found hydroperoxide levels in real fragranced products to be orders of magnitude below what induced sensitization in animal studies with no evidence of oxidation building up during normal storage.
The practical takeaway is that linalool is fine for most people but worth avoiding if you have a confirmed fragrance contact allergy or a badly compromised barrier.
Products stored a long time after opening are also the high-risk scenario since that is when oxidation happens.
The scent of linalool is described as floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPhenyl Trimethicone is a silicon-based polymer. It is derived from silica.
Phenyl Trimethicone is used as an emollient and prevents products from foaming.
As an emollient, it helps trap moisture in the skin. It is considered an occlusive.
Learn more about Phenyl TrimethiconePropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water