What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventCitrus Reticulata Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantBakuchiol
AntimicrobialAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Olivate
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantSodium Citrate
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Propanediol, Citrus Reticulata Fruit Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Glycerin, Panthenol, Dipropylene Glycol, Bakuchiol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbitan Olivate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Citric Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Citrate, Tocopherol
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantPanthenol
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCollagen
MoisturisingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPropanediol
SolventBakuchiol
AntimicrobialPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Extract
AntioxidantPropylene Glycol
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingAstaxanthin
Skin ConditioningArginine/Lysine Polypeptide
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningWater, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Panthenol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Collagen, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Propanediol, Bakuchiol, Polysorbate 20, Centella Asiatica Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Camellia Sinensis Extract, Propylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phospholipids, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, Astaxanthin, Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.
You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:
1) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV)
2) activate the same genes retinoids do
Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).
The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.
Systematic reviews also back this up:
Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.
The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.
This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.
Learn more about BakuchiolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenonePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water