What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningSynthetic Beeswax
Emulsion StabilisingCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingCopernicia Cerifera Cera
EmollientTribehenin
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingTriethanolamine
BufferingPalmitic Acid
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientIsopentyldiol
HumectantPolybutene
Vp/Eicosene Copolymer
Hydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion Stabilising1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientGalactoarabinan
Lecithin
EmollientArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientOpuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil
EmollientMaltodextrin
AbsorbentArachidic Acid
CleansingTocopherol
AntioxidantMyristic Acid
CleansingAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantNephelium Lappaceum Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningDisodium Phosphate
BufferingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingOleic Acid
EmollientSodium Phosphate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingWater, Synthetic Beeswax, CI 77499, Acacia Senegal Gum, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Tribehenin, Stearic Acid, Triethanolamine, Palmitic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Isopentyldiol, Polybutene, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Hydroxyethylcellulose, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Galactoarabinan, Lecithin, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Seed Oil, Maltodextrin, Arachidic Acid, Tocopherol, Myristic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Nephelium Lappaceum Seed Extract, Disodium Phosphate, Polysorbate 60, Oleic Acid, Sodium Phosphate, Citric Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingGlyceryl Behenate
EmollientC18-36 Acid Triglyceride
EmollientCopernicia Cerifera Cera
EmollientAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingPolyglyceryl-6 Distearate
EmulsifyingVp/Eicosene Copolymer
Oryza Sativa Bran Cera
Skin ConditioningRhus Succedanea Fruit Cera
EmollientMethyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Polyvinyl Stearyl Ether
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Cera
EmollientDicalcium Phosphate
AbrasiveSodium Hydroxide
BufferingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPotassium Sorbate
Preservative1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningCellulose
AbsorbentCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract
Emulsion StabilisingAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Pentylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Behenate, C18-36 Acid Triglyceride, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Acacia Senegal Gum, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Vp/Eicosene Copolymer, Oryza Sativa Bran Cera, Rhus Succedanea Fruit Cera, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Polyvinyl Stearyl Ether, Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, Dicalcium Phosphate, Sodium Hydroxide, Hydroxyacetophenone, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Panthenol, Cellulose, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, CI 77499, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77891
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Acacia Senegal Gum has skin soothing, thickening, and formulation stabilizing properties. It comes from the Acacia tree that is native to sub-Saharan Africa.
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.
It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.
As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.
Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited.
Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:
Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.
It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.
Learn more about Ascorbyl PalmitateCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCi 77499 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It is created from mixing red and black iron oxides. This helps give shades of darkness to a product.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
This ingredient comes from a palm tree native to Brazil. This ingredient is used to thicken texture and leaves behind a film when applied.
Hydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWe don't have a description for Vp/Eicosene Copolymer yet.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water