What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningKaolin
AbrasiveGlycerin
HumectantAlcohol
AntimicrobialCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialParfum
MaskingCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantMenthol
MaskingPolyacrylate-13
Polyisobutene
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingWater, Kaolin, Glycerin, Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, PEG-100 Stearate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Arachidyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside, Behenyl Alcohol, Chlorphenesin, Parfum, CI 77499, Menthol, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Isostearate
Water
Skin ConditioningJojoba Esters
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantHamamelis Virginiana Water
AstringentBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingKojic Acid
AntioxidantRetinol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantAlcohol
AntimicrobialSucrose Stearate
EmollientOlea Europaea Leaf Extract
PerfumingCitrus Limon Peel Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Flower Oil
AstringentDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientMalic Acid
BufferingZanthoxylum Americanum Bark Extract
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSorbic Acid
PreservativeWater, Jojoba Esters, Glycerin, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Behenyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Kojic Acid, Retinol, Polysorbate 20, Butylene Glycol, Alcohol, Sucrose Stearate, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Flower Oil, Dicaprylyl Ether, Caprylyl Glycol, Malic Acid, Zanthoxylum Americanum Bark Extract, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Sorbic Acid
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.
In formulas, it:
Is it bad for your skin?
The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.
Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.
In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.
This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.
Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).
Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.
According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.
True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.
Learn more about AlcoholBehenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).
Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.
Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.
In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.
Learn more about Behenyl AlcoholCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water