What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAlcohol
AntimicrobialGlycerin
HumectantSodium Lactate
BufferingGlycolic Acid
BufferingSucrose
HumectantUrea
BufferingSodium Citrate
BufferingMalic Acid
BufferingTartaric Acid
BufferingPropylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAscorbyl Isostearate
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingLecithin
EmollientRetinol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingWater, Alcohol, Glycerin, Sodium Lactate, Glycolic Acid, Sucrose, Urea, Sodium Citrate, Malic Acid, Tartaric Acid, Propylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Glycine Soja Oil, Retinyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbyl Isostearate, Parfum, Lecithin, Retinol, Polysorbate 20
Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingAcetyl Glucosamine
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingMorus Alba Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialBroussonetia Kazinoki Root Extract
Skin ConditioningErgosterol
Skin ConditioningGalactoarabinan
Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingCyclomethicone
EmollientSalicylic Acid
MaskingParfum
MaskingLecithin
EmollientRetinol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingWater, Niacinamide, Acetyl Glucosamine, Centella Asiatica Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Broussonetia Kazinoki Root Extract, Ergosterol, Galactoarabinan, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Cyclomethicone, Salicylic Acid, Parfum, Lecithin, Retinol, Polysorbate 20
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone is a synthetically created molecule made to mimic ginger extract.
Ginger has anti-inflammatory properties and helps to soothe skin.
According to one study, it is an HA booster, antioxidant, and anti-irritant.
In this study, this ingredient was able to stimulate higher hyaluronic acid levels of the dermal and epidermal layers on a skin-like model. Hyaluronic Acid is a humectant, which means it helps attract moisture to your skin. Humectants help keep skin hydrated.
As an antioxidant, Hydroxymethoxyphenyl Decanone is able to fight off damage from free-radical molecules.
Learn more about Hydroxymethoxyphenyl DecanoneLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Depending on the source of this ingredient, lecithin may not be fungal acne safe. This is because some sources of lecithin come from soybean oil, which may feed the malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.
We recommend reaching out to the brand you are purchasing from to inquire about the source of their lecithin.
Learn more about LecithinParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water