What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Isododecane
EmollientTrimethylsiloxysilicate
EmollientPolyethylene
AbrasiveMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingDextrin Palmitate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
EmulsifyingAcrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPEG-15 Glyceryl Stearate
EmulsifyingSilica
AbrasivePhenoxyethanol
PreservativeNylon-6
Tocopherol
AntioxidantPanthenyl Ethyl Ether
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientIsostearic Acid
CleansingIsostearoyl Hydrolyzed Silk
Skin ConditioningIron Oxides
CI 77266
Cosmetic ColorantIsododecane, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Polyethylene, Microcrystalline Wax, Dextrin Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer, Dextrin, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-15 Glyceryl Stearate, Silica, Phenoxyethanol, Nylon-6, Tocopherol, Panthenyl Ethyl Ether, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Isostearic Acid, Isostearoyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Iron Oxides, CI 77266
Isododecane
EmollientTrimethylsiloxysilicate
EmollientMethyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveDextrin Palmitate
EmulsifyingMicrocrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingParaffin
Skin ConditioningIsostearic Acid
CleansingCopernicia Cerifera Wax
Petrolatum
EmollientOctyldodecyl Isostearate
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Hydrogenated Rosinate
Polyethylene
AbrasiveTocopherol
AntioxidantCamellia Seed Oil
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientSqualane
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAlcohol
AntimicrobialWater
Skin ConditioningRoyal Jelly Extract
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSilica
AbrasiveTalc
AbrasiveMica
Cosmetic ColorantIron Oxides
Isododecane, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Methyl Trimethicone, Synthetic Wax, Dextrin Palmitate, Microcrystalline Wax, Beeswax, Paraffin, Isostearic Acid, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Petrolatum, Octyldodecyl Isostearate, Pentaerythrityl Hydrogenated Rosinate, Polyethylene, Tocopherol, Camellia Seed Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Squalane, Panthenol, Alcohol, Water, Royal Jelly Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Silica, Talc, Mica, Iron Oxides
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Dextrin Palmitate is an oil-loving texture helper made by bonding palmitic acid onto Dextrin. It's main roles are to turn liquid oils into spreadable gels and prevent ingredients from separating.
It also lends a silky, non-greasy slip that makes products feel more elegant.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.5-5%, but can go up to 10% depending on how firm the gel is.
Because it's an ester built on a fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Dextrin PalmitateIsododecane is a fragrance, emollient, and solvent.
As an emollient, it helps your skin stay soft and hydrated. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin.
Isododecane's role as a solvent makes it a great texture enhancer. It spreads smoothly on skin and does not leave a sticky feeling behind. Isododecane also helps prevent color transfer in makeup products.
Isododecane is not absorbed into skin.
The chemical name for this ingredient is 2,2,4,6,6-PENTAMETHYLHEPTANE.
Learn more about IsododecaneIsostearic Acid is a fatty acid and a structural cousin of stearic acid. It is an emulsifier.
The branched structure of this ingredient enhances fluidity and gives it a lighter, less greasy feel compared to other fatty acids. It helps improve texture and consistency because it prevents oil and water phases from separating.
This ingredient is sourced from plant-based oils like soybean or rapeseed.
Clinical studies found no signs of irritation from this ingredient.
Since Isostearic Acid is an 18-carbon fatty acid, it is in the range that Malassezia can feed on. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
You might have seen sources that this ingredient is comedogenic. This is because the original comedogenic tests (on rabbit ears, which are more sensitive than human skin) tested
The Kligman/Fulton rabbit ear papers actually tested the ester, Isopropyl Isostearate and not Isostearic acid itself. There has been no comedogenic testing done on this ingredient, but it may be worth patch testing if you have acne-prone skin.
Learn more about Isostearic AcidMicrocrystalline Wax is derived from petroleum through a de-oiling process, then highly refined and purified before use in cosmetics.
In skincare formulations, it is used to improve texture and create a smooth, even consistency. It also helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating.
Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polyethylene is a synthetic ingredient that helps the skin retain moisture. It is a polymer.
It is also typically used within product formulations to help bind solid ingredients together and thicken oil-based ingredients. When added to balms and emulsions, it helps increase the melting point temperature.
Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Learn more about SilicaJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Due to its fatty acid content, Jojoba oil may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolThis silicone is an emollient. Emollients create a thin film on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
It is not soluble in water and helps increase water-resistance in products.
According to a manufacturer, it can blend seamlessly with silicone oils, such as Cyclopentasiloxane.
Learn more about TrimethylsiloxysilicateThis ingredient is a combination of red, black, and yellow iron oxide pigments. This combination of colors is usually found in foundation, because it results in a "skin" color.
The EU typically uses CI numbers for colorants when applicable, such as CI 77489. In the US, iron oxides are regulated as color additives and "iron oxides" is the most commonly used name in US cosmetic practice.
A 2021 paper looked at skincare formulations containing iron oxides and found that they reduced transmission of blue light when measured optically. In simple terms, the pigment particles helped block or scatter part of the visible light spectrum in lab testing and the authors suggest this could translate into better protection against blue-light-related skin effects.
There is also clinical and experimental research showing that tinted products containing iron oxides can reduce visible light-induced pigmentation:
Please note, whether a product reduces visible or blue light depends on things like:
In the EU's CosIng database, iron oxides are only listed as a colorant. CosIng groups ingredients by their main cosmetic role, such as colorant, preservative, or UV filter.
Though studies say iron oxides can "attenuate blue light", they're describing an optical property and not an officially recognized cosmetic function.
So CosIng isn’t contradicting the research. It’s just classifying iron oxides by what they officially are: pigments that add color.
Learn more about Iron Oxides