What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningMethylpropanediol
SolventGlycerin
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPolypropylsilsesquioxane
C14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingGlyceryl Stearates
EmollientAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydrolyzed Sponge
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTocopherol
AntioxidantRetinol 0.1%
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingUndecane
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningC12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingLauryl Glucoside
CleansingPolyglyceryl-6 Laurate
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningTridecane
PerfumingDisodium EDTA
Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningMyristyl Glucoside
CleansingGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantPvm/Ma Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingButylene Glycol
HumectantBeta-Carotene
Skin ConditioningGlucose
HumectantTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningNonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningDipeptide-2
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
HumectantAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningWater, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Panthenol, Polypropylsilsesquioxane, C14-22 Alcohols, Glyceryl Stearates, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Sponge, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tocopherol, Retinol 0.1%, Allantoin, Arginine, Undecane, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Lauryl Glucoside, Polyglyceryl-6 Laurate, Adenosine, Tridecane, Disodium EDTA, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Myristyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Butylene Glycol, Beta-Carotene, Glucose, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Nonapeptide-1, Hexapeptide-9, Dipeptide-2, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Water
Skin ConditioningDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientCoco-Caprylate
EmollientHydrogenated Farnesene
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingPropanediol
SolventCeteareth-6 Olivate
EmulsifyingDistarch Phosphate
AbsorbentCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-11
Emulsion StabilisingPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantDivinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientRetinol
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Coco-Caprylate, Hydrogenated Farnesene, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Ceteareth-6 Olivate, Distarch Phosphate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-11, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Divinyldimethicone/Dimethicone Crosspolymer, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Retinol, Hyaluronic Acid, Copper Tripeptide-1, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Gluconate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Tocopherol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCopper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.
It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.
While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.
Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.
Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.
Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.
For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.
After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.
While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.
Read more about other common types of peptides here:
Learn more about Copper Tripeptide-1Retinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).
It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.
That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.
Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.
Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.
Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.
Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.
The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.
Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.
In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:
That last two are worth a closer look.
A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.
Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.
So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).
It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.
The research backs this up as well.
A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.
Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).
Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.
One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.
It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.
Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.
This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.
Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.
The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.
Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.
Learn more about RetinolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water