Brinton Pharmaceuticals Ltd. Acmist Moisturizing Cream Gel Versus Dot & Key Skincare 10% Vitamin C+E & 5% Niacinamide Face Serum
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Squalane and Trehalose to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This brightening serum is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and fade the look of dark spots.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Squalane
Emollient
Trehalose
Humectant
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Emollient
Propanediol
Solvent
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialOctyldodecyl Myristate
EmollientAcrylamide/Sodium Acrylate Copolymer
PEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Behenyl Alcohol
Emollient
Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
EmollientBetaine
Humectant
Bisabolol
Antioxidant
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Glycerin
Humectant
Ethoxydiglycol
HumectantPropanediol
Solvent
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Ferulic Acid
Antimicrobial
Citric Acid
Buffering
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingDisodium EDTA
Sodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Alpha-Arbutin
Antioxidant
Laminaria Digitata Extract
Skin Protecting
Cetyl-Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin Conditioning
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
Antioxidant
Cucurbita Pepo Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
Water, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Ethoxydiglycol, Propanediol, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ferulic Acid, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Gluconate, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Alpha-Arbutin, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Cetyl-Pg Hydroxyethyl Palmitamide, Ceramide AP, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Cucurbita Pepo Fruit Extract
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl Acetate
