What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Microcrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Masking
Cetyl Palmitate
Emollient
Petrolatum
Emollient
Myristyl Myristate
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate
Emulsifying
Water
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Copernicia Cerifera Wax
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
C20-40 Alkyl Stearate
Skin ConditioningBeeswax
Emulsion Stabilising
Glycerin
Humectant
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Octyldodecanol, Microcrystalline Wax, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Cetyl Palmitate, Petrolatum, Myristyl Myristate, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Cetearyl Alcohol, C20-40 Alkyl Stearate, Beeswax, Glycerin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Panthenol
Petrolatum
Emollient
Polybutene
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
Emulsifying
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer
Silica
Abrasive
Hydrogenated Castor Oil
Emollient
PPG-51/Smdi Copolymer
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Sea Whip Extract
Skin ConditioningCeramide Ng
Skin Conditioning
Cholesterol
Emollient
Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
C12-16 Alcohols
EmollientTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Antioxidant
Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Palmitic Acid
Emollient
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Petrolatum, Polybutene, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Tocopheryl Acetate, Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer, Silica, Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-51/Smdi Copolymer, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sea Whip Extract, Ceramide Ng, Cholesterol, Astrocaryum Murumuru Seed Butter, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, C12-16 Alcohols, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Palmitic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglyceridePetrolatum is more commonly known as petroleum jelly. It is created by mixing waxes and mineral oils.
This ingredient is effective at reducing water loss by 99%. This is because it is an occlusive. Occlusives create a hydrophobic barrier on the skin to prevent evaporation. This property makes it great for hydrating dry skin.
Pro tip: Use occlusives, such as this ingredient, on damp skin for the best results.
The quality or origin of petrolatum is only known when disclosed by the brand. Most cosmetic petrolatum has gone through several purification stages.
Another benefit of occlusives is it protects your skin against infection or allergies.
Petrolatum is fungal acne safe. It is a hydrocarbon with no fatty acid structure, so Malassezia cannot metabolize it. In-vitro studies support negligible growth stimulation as well.
It's also worth noting that petrolatum has a comedogenic rating of 0. In updated rabbit ear testing (and in human testing), petrolatum was found to be not comedogenic. This means it didn’t promote comedone formation in standard models.
Learn more about PetrolatumTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl Acetate
