Uriage Xemose PSO Soothing Concentrate Versus Uriage Xémose Lipid Replenishing Anti-Irritation Cream
This barrier-repair treatment is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter to strengthen the skin barrier.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Squalane to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningOctyldodecanol
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Skin ConditioningDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantJojoba Esters
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Cera
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientBrassica Campestris Sterols
EmollientGlycine
BufferingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAcacia Decurrens Flower Cera
EmollientPolyglycerin-3
HumectantSafflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters
Skin ConditioningGlucosyl Hesperidin
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Octyldodecanol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glycerin, Jojoba Esters, Helianthus Annuus Seed Cera, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sodium Polyacrylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Glycine, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Acacia Decurrens Flower Cera, Polyglycerin-3, Safflower Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters, Glucosyl Hesperidin, Tocopherol, Sodium Hydroxide
Water
Skin ConditioningParaffinum Liquidum
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantCetyl Alcohol
EmollientSqualane
EmollientSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantBrassica Campestris Sterols
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCetrimonium Bromide
AntimicrobialO-Cymen-5-Ol
AntimicrobialPiroctone Olamine
PreservativeXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingRaspberry Seed Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters
Skin ConditioningAsiaticoside
AntioxidantPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningBorage Seed Oil Aminopropanediol Amides
Skin ConditioningWater, Paraffinum Liquidum, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glycerin, Polysorbate 60, Butylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Squalane, Sodium Polyacrylate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Dimethicone, Chlorphenesin, Tocopheryl Acetate, Cetrimonium Bromide, O-Cymen-5-Ol, Piroctone Olamine, Xanthan Gum, Raspberry Seed Oil/Palm Oil Aminopropanediol Esters, Asiaticoside, Phytosphingosine, Borage Seed Oil Aminopropanediol Amides
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is the sterol fraction pulled out of rapeseed (or field mustard) oil. It's the waxy, cholesterol-like part of the oil.
That cholesterol-like part matters because the molecules are structurally close cousins of the cholesterol your own skin makes.
Cholesterol is one of the three lipids (along with ceramides and fatty acids) that hold your skin barrier together. So the plant sterols (like this one) do the same job: they integrate into the barrier and mimic the skin's natural lipids, which helps it hold onto water.
There's some decent evidence too:
A tape stripping study found skin treated with a phyosterol formulation recovered barrier function noticeably faster than skin treated with the vehicle alone.
Phytosterols also show anti-inflammatory activity which is why they appear often in soothing and anti-aging creams.
Usage concentrations vary according to industry survey data; leave-on products go up to 7% and rinse-off products up to 0.13%.
Actual face products usually use lower amounts (0.1-2%), partly because sterols are waxy and don't dissolve easily.
A human repeat insult patch test of 100% pure sterols in 50 subjects produced no irritation/sensitization, and guinea pig maximization testing was also negative. The CIR Expert Panel has also concluded the phytosterol ingredient group is safe at current use concentrations.
Fungal acne note: Sterols are not fatty acids and the yeast makes its own sterols anyway, so this ingredient doesn't feed it (it is fungal acne safe).
Learn more about Brassica Campestris SterolsThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterDicaprylyl Ether is created from caprylic acid. It is a texture-enhancer and emollient.
As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Ether is non-comedogenic. It helps soften and smooth the skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier helps trap moisture in, helping to hydrate the skin.
Dicaprylyl Ether gives a non-greasy feel and better spreadability to products.
Learn more about Dicaprylyl EtherGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinSodium Polyacrylate is the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid. It is used as an absorber, emollient, and stabilizer.
This ingredient is a super-absorbent polymer - meaning it can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. As an emollient, Sodium Polyacrylate helps soften and soothe skin. Emollients work by creating a barrier to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Tocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum