What's inside
What's inside
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningSodium Laureth Sulfate
CleansingSodium Chloride
MaskingParfum
MaskingCocamidopropyl Betaine
CleansingTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Propylene Glycol
HumectantPEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate
CleansingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeGlycerin
HumectantPolyquaternium-10
Fucus Vesiculosus Extract
EmollientLaminaria Digitata Extract
Skin ProtectingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Chloride, Parfum, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Propylene Glycol, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Trioleate, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Glycerin, Polyquaternium-10, Fucus Vesiculosus Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Benzyl Salicylate, Hydroxycitronellal, Linalool, Citronellol, CI 19140, CI 42090
Water
Skin ConditioningCocamidopropyl Betaine
CleansingDisodium Cocoamphodiacetate
CleansingLauryl Glucoside
CleansingDecyl Glucoside
CleansingSodium Chloride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantGlyceryl Laurate
EmollientInulin
Skin ConditioningMagnesium PCA
HumectantRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
MaskingPelargonium Graveolens Oil
MaskingSalvia Sclarea Extract
AntiseborrhoeicCoconut Acid
CleansingCupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeLaminaria Digitata Extract
Skin ProtectingCitric Acid
BufferingSucrose
HumectantSodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningPlankton Extract
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingWater, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Lauryl Glucoside, Decyl Glucoside, Sodium Chloride, Glycerin, Glyceryl Laurate, Inulin, Magnesium PCA, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Salvia Sclarea Extract, Coconut Acid, Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract, Panthenol, Parfum, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Citric Acid, Sucrose, Sodium Levulinate, Plankton Extract, Lecithin, Citronellol, Geraniol, Limonene, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".
Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.
Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.
Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,
Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.
Learn more about CitronellolCocamidopropyl Betaine is a fatty acid created by mixing similar compounds in coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine, a compound with two amino groups.
This ingredient is a surfactant and cleanser. It helps gather the dirt, pollutants, and other impurities in your skin to be washed away. It also helps thicken a product and make the texture more creamy.
Being created from coconut oil means Cocamidopropyl Betaine is hydrating for the skin.
While Cocamidopropyl Betaine was believed to be an allergen, a study from 2012 disproved this. It found two compounds in unpure Cocamidopropyl Betaine to be the irritants: aminoamide and 3-dimethylaminopropylamine. High-grade and pure Cocamidopropyl Betaine did not induce allergic reactions during this study.
Learn more about Cocamidopropyl BetaineGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLaminaria Digitata Extract comes from the big brown seaweed (or kelp) that grows in the North Atlantic. In skincare, it's mostly used as a skin protectant and conditioning agent.
The most interesting stuff inside is mostly just sugars and minerals: fucoidan (a sulfated polysaccharide), laminarin (a beta-glucan), alginates, and phlorotannins (seaweed polyphenols).
Any antioxidant and soothing claims mostly come from those polysaccharides; crude laminarin and fucoidan from Laminaria digitata do show antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in lab assays.
Just know that the lab assays are test-tube work on isolated compounds and not clinical trials on the finished extract.
Realistically, this ingredient is a nice-feeling and hydrating skin conditioner (not really an active).
Safety-wise, it's one of the better documented seaweeds and safe to be used in cosmetics according to the CIR Expert Panel.
Industry surveys find that usage concentrations run can be found up to 5% in bubble baths and leave-on usage is more likely 0.1-3%.
The risk of allergy is also quite low as human repeat insult patch tests (under 5% and blends containing 8-12%) came back non-irritating and non-sensitizing. Rabbit studies came back negative too, though one trade mixture at 1.5-2.5% in water + propylene glycol did cause moderate irritation at 30 minutes.
Reported seaweed allergies in the literature are almost all occupational (people handling wet kelp) or from a totally unrelated blue/green alga.
At this time, there's actually no published comedogenicity test on it and the evidence that does exist points away from clogging.
Laminaria Digitata Extract has never been run through the rabbit ear assay or the Mills & Kligman human model and it isn't in Fulton's 1989 list of tested comedogenic ratings.
The CIR's brown algae review pulled every published and unpublished study industry had on 82 seaweed ingredients and found no comedogenicity data for any of them.
So any number you see online was assigned by a person and not actually measured.
In 2012, Capitanio et al. ran an 8-week double-blind, vehicle-controlled trial in 60 people with mild acne using a Laminaria digitata-derived oligosaccharide complexed with 0.1% zinc pyrrolidone.
They found comedones, papules and pustules dropped significantly more in the active group than the vehicle group at 2, 4 and 8 weeks.
Caveats for this study: a Laminaria digitata-derived oligosaccharide is just fraction and not the plain extract, and the zinc is likely doing real work. Still, the study found comedones went down in acne-prone skin.
This fits mechanistically. Comedogenesis is largely a lipid story and this is water-soluble polysaccharides, minerals, and polyphenols. There's nothing really to plug a follicle with.
The real caveat is the carrier: some supplier versions come dispersed in caprylic/capric triglycerides.
The 0-5 scale comes from applying ingredients to the inside of an albino rabbit's ear. Rabbit follicles are far more reactive than human ones so it over-predicts. Even petrolatum was reassigned as non-comedogenic by the original scientist, Kligman.
Here are three more problems of comedogenic ratings:
Learn more about Laminaria Digitata ExtractLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPotassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateChances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.
You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.
You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.
You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium ChlorideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water