What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantLactose
HumectantC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCetearyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
PEG-8
HumectantRetinol
Skin ConditioningDihydroxy Methylchromone
AntioxidantMagnesium Aspartate
Skin ConditioningZinc Gluconate
Skin ConditioningCopper Gluconate
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantSorbitol
HumectantStearyl Alcohol
EmollientIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientPropyl Gallate
AntioxidantTromethamine
BufferingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingMethyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer
Chlorhexidine Digluconate
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
BHT
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingWater, Glycerin, Lactose, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-8, Retinol, Dihydroxy Methylchromone, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Sorbitol, Stearyl Alcohol, Isopropyl Myristate, Propyl Gallate, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Citric Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Propanediol
SolventBacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningMacrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Skin ConditioningChenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningAngelica Archangelica Callus Extract
Skin ProtectingGlycerin
HumectantSorghum Bicolor Stalk Juice
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Skin ConditioningSodium Polystyrene Sulfonate
Emulsion StabilisingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPropyl Gallate
AntioxidantAllyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPvp
Emulsion StabilisingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingBHT
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Citric Acid
BufferingCI 16035
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Propanediol, Bacillus Ferment, Retinol, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Chenopodium Quinoa Seed Extract, Angelica Archangelica Callus Extract, Glycerin, Sorghum Bicolor Stalk Juice, Adenosine, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Aminomethyl Propanol, Polysorbate 20, Propyl Gallate, Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Pvp, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, BHT, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, CI 16035, CI 19140
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Propyl Gallate is a synthetic antioxidant. It works by protecting the oils, fats, and fragrance compounds in a formula from going rancid through oxidation, helping the product stay stable and effective for longer.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel recommends keeping Propyl Gallate at or below 0.1% due to potential sensitization at higher levels, and most formulas stay within that limit.
We flag Propyl Gallate as both a general irritant and a lip irritant because direct skin contact can trigger redness or allergic contact dermatitis. The more sensitive skin on and around the lips is prone to reacting.
Learn more about Propyl GallateRetinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water