What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Zinc Oxide 25%
Cosmetic ColorantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningCera Alba
EmollientEuphorbia Cerifera Wax
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingIsostearic Acid
CleansingGlycerin
HumectantPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingSodium Chloride
MaskingMaltodextrin
AbsorbentXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingVanillin
MaskingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCalendula Officinalis Extract
Skin ConditioningHippophae Rhamnoides Oil
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantBisabolol
AntioxidantTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
AntioxidantSodium Ascorbate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantCoriandrum Sativum Oil
MaskingAhnfeltia Plicata Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Grandis Seed Extract
AstringentCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantZinc Oxide 25%, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Water, Cera Alba, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Isostearic Acid, Glycerin, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Sodium Chloride, Maltodextrin, Xanthan Gum, Vanillin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Calendula Officinalis Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bisabolol, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Sodium Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Coriandrum Sativum Oil, Ahnfeltia Plicata Extract, Citrus Grandis Seed Extract, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
Zinc Oxide 25%
Cosmetic ColorantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningEuphorbia Cerifera Wax
Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingIsostearic Acid
CleansingGlycerin
HumectantPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingSodium Chloride
MaskingMaltodextrin
AbsorbentXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCalendula Officinalis Extract
Skin ConditioningHippophae Rhamnoides Oil
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantBisabolol
AntioxidantTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
AntioxidantSodium Ascorbate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantCoriandrum Sativum Oil
MaskingAhnfeltia Plicata Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Grandis Seed Extract
AstringentCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantZinc Oxide 25%, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Water, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Isostearic Acid, Glycerin, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Sodium Chloride, Maltodextrin, Xanthan Gum, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Calendula Officinalis Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bisabolol, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Sodium Ascorbate, Tocopherol, Coriandrum Sativum Oil, Ahnfeltia Plicata Extract, Citrus Grandis Seed Extract, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
We don't have a description for Ahnfeltia Plicata Extract yet.
Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.
It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.
A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.
In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.
You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.
Learn more about BisabololCalendula Officinalis Extract comes from the common Marigold plant.
Marigold flowers contain flavonoids. Flavonoids are a group of substances found naturally in plants. They possess antioxidant and inflammation properties.
This ingredient may help soothe your skin by reducing inflammation. Emerging studies show it inhibits nitrous oxide production safely, therefore reducing inflammation.
Marigolds have been used in traditional medicine throughout Asia and Europe.
Learn more about Calendula Officinalis ExtractCi 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77491CI 77492 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a yellow hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created CI 77492 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77492Ci 77499 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It is created from mixing red and black iron oxides. This helps give shades of darkness to a product.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Citrus Grandis Seed Extract is a fragrance.
Coriandrum Sativum is also called coriander or cilantro.
This oil is rich in fatty acids and may not be Malassezia folliculitis safe.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilHippophae Rhamnoides Oil also known as seabuckthorn oil. This oil is usually extracted from the fruit pulp or seeds.
Seabuckthorn is rich in phytosterols, carotenoids, Vitamins A, C, and E. This gives it strong antioxidant properties that can help soothe and protect your skin from oxidative damage.
This oil is rich in fatty acids, including: two types of linoleic acid (~30-34%), oleic acid (17%), and palmiteic acid (35%). Note these numbers are averages, and different parts of the plant will vary.
Palmitoleic acid has been shown to help soothe inflammation and promote wound healing. It is also naturally found in the fat of our skin.
Overall, seabuckthorn oil is great for nourishing, hydrating, and soothing skin. While it shows UV protecting properties, it should not replace sunscreen.
Due to the rich fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal acne, safe.
Seabuckthorn berries are little orange fruits. This plant is native to Asia.
Learn more about Hippophae Rhamnoides OilIsostearic acid is a saturated fatty acid. Its structure makes it a great surfactant.
Surfactants help decrease the surface tension between two liquids. This property also makes it an effective emulsifier. Emulsifiers help prevent waters and oils from separating in a product.
Isostearic Acid is created from oleic acid.
This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about Isostearic AcidMaltodextrin is a polysaccharide. It is derived from starch such as rice, corn, wheat, or potato starch.
In food, Maltodextrin is used to improve the texture and thicken a product. Due to its structure, it can help create a gel texture. As an emulsion stabilizer, it helps keep the ingredients in a product together.
As a polysaccharide, Maltodextrin has moisturizing properties. Polysaccharides are a type of carbohydrate. The top layer of skin uses polysaccharides to retain water, keeping the skin hydrated.
Maltodextrin is water soluble and has a sweet taste.
Learn more about MaltodextrinThis ingredient is an emulsifier. It is created from Polyglycerin-3 and Ricinoleic Acid.
As an emulsifier, it prevents waters and oils from separating. According to a manufacturer this ingredient is fully biodegradable.
This ingredient may not be safe for Malassezia folliculitis due to its Ricinoleic Acid base. Ricinoleic Acid is a fatty acid derived from castor oil.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-3 PolyricinoleatePolyhydroxystearic Acid is a soft wax made from castor oil.
It is is a texture thickener, emulsifier, and film-former. Emulsifiers prevent ingredients from separating, such as oils and waters.
Polyhydroxystearic Acid may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polyhydroxystearic AcidPotassium Cetyl Phosphate is the potassium salt of a mixture. This mixture consists of the esters from phosphoricacid and cetyl alcohol.
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is an emulsifier and cleansing agent. Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating.
As a cleansing agent, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate helps gather oils, dirts, and pollutants from your skin. This makes it easier to rinse them away with water.
Learn more about Potassium Cetyl PhosphateJojoba oil is one of the most well-studied plant-derived ingredients in cosmetics. It is an emollient with a special structure.
Because it is made up of 97-98% wax esters, it closely mirrors the linear monoesters found in human sebum. This makes it skin compatible, non-greasy, and lightweight.
Unlike other plant oils, jojoba wax doesn't easily penetrate skin. It mostly works in the uppermost layers as an emollient. This just means it forms a light barrier on the skin to help retain moisture.
Formulations with jojoba esters up to 90% reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and increased barrier recovery by 81% (outperforming bisabolol at 47%).
Besides barrier support, the science also suggests jojoba to have anti-inflammatory effects and potential applications for skin infections, aging, and wound healing.
Fun fact: Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns for centuries.
Due to its fatty acid content, Jojoba oil may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed OilSodium Ascorbate is a form of Vitamin C. It is derived from the sodium salt of ascorbic acid.
As a Vitamin C, it is an antioxidant. It can help to reduce redness, improve skin texture, reduce the effects of aging, and reduce the visibility of dark spots.
Chances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.
You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.
You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.
You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium ChlorideSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract is from the Kakadu plum. The Kakadu plum is native to northern Australia. The Kakadu plum holds the record for having the highest amount of natural vitamin C.
This ingredient is an antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radicals and thus may reduce the signs of aging.
The high vitamin C content of Kakadu plum also helps lighten skin. Vitamin C has been shown to block the process of skin darkening that leads to hyperpigmentation.
Kakadu plums have been used by indigenous cultures as medicine to help treat colds and as an antiseptic.
Learn more about Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit ExtractTocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.
Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.
Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.
You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.
There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan GumZinc Oxide is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter; it is the broadest UVA and UVB reflector approved by the FDA. It also has skin protectant and skin soothing properties.
Zinc oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters. It protects against UVB, UVAII, and UVAI. In comparison to its counterpart titanium dioxide, zinc oxide provides uniform and extended UVA protection.
Another great benefit? This ingredient is highly photostable so it won't degrade easily under sunlight.
A common myth is that mineral UV filters are widely believed to primarily reflect UV light.
However, modern research shows titanium dioxide absorbs UV radiation like chemical filters (~95% absorption & 5% reflection).
Zinc oxide has great skin soothing properties so you'll likely find this in sunscreens formulated for sensitive skin or babies/children. It is unlikely to cause "eye sting" like other sunscreen ingredients.
Regulatory agencies consider zinc oxide to be non-toxic and safe. It has also been shown to not penetrate the skin.
Unfortunately, this ingredient does leave a visible white cast. This is why mineral sunscreens are often less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid ones.
In cosmetics, zinc oxide can be found in both non-nano and nano-sized forms. The nano version is used to reduce white cast and improve the texture of sunscreen formulas.
There are ongoing concerns surrounding nano-zinc oxide's impact on marine ecosystems and whether it can be absorbed into skin.
Regarding marine ecosystems and coral reefs, there is no conclusive evidence that any form of zinc oxide (or any other sunscreen ingredients) will cause harm. The science is still developing but many consumers are keeping a close eye on this issue.
Please note, many destinations have reef-safety sunscreen rules. For instance, the U.S. Virgin Islands advises all visitors to use non-nano mineral sunscreens.
There has also been some stir about whether micronized or nano zinc oxide has potential photoxicity and absorption through the skin/lungs.
An in-vitro (done in a test tube or petri dish) study demonstrated micronized zinc oxide to have potential phototoxicity. There's no need to fret; the EU Commission's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has stated, "The relevance of these findings needs to be clarified by appropriate investigations in vivo." Or in other words, further studies done on living organisms are needed to prove this.
Current research shows zinc oxide nanoparticles do not penetrate intact or sunburned skin. They either remain on the surface or in the outermost layer of dead skin (stratum corneum).
Zinc oxide is one of only two classified mineral UV filters with titanium dioxide being the other one.
Fun fact: Zinc has been used throughout history as an ingredient in paint and medicine. An Indian text from 500BC is believed to list zinc oxide as a salve for open wound. The Ancient Greek physician Dioscorides has also mentioned the use of zinc as an ointment in 1AD.
Learn more about Zinc OxideEuphorbia Cerifera wax comes from a shrub in Northern Mexico. It is used to stabilize formulations and has emollient properties.
Emollients form a thin layer on top of skin to prevent water from evaporating, keeping skin and lips hydrated.
According to a manufacturer, this wax can range from a yellow/brown color to translucent.
Learn more about Euphorbia Cerifera Wax