Plum Goodness Salicylic & Lactic Acid Skin-Smoothing Gel Moisturizer Versus Simple Skincare Water Boost Hydrating Gel Cream
This smoothing moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Salicylic Acid to refine skin texture and clear breakouts.
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Sodium PCA and Saccharide Isomerate to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingGlycerin
HumectantSaccharum Officinarum Extract
MoisturisingVaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract
MaskingAcer Saccharum Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Medica Limonum Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSalicylic Acid
MaskingLactic Acid
BufferingPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingOpuntia Ficus-Indica Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Propylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Carbomer, Glycerin, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract, Acer Saccharum Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum Fruit Extract, Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantIsohexadecane
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingLinoleamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate
Stearic Acid
CleansingSodium PCA
HumectantDisodium EDTA
BHT
AntioxidantSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantSodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingPotassium Chloride
Sodium Chloride
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Isohexadecane, Propylene Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Linoleamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Stearic Acid, Sodium PCA, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Saccharide Isomerate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Potassium Chloride, Sodium Chloride
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water