What's inside
What's inside
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningSodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
CleansingGlycol Distearate
EmollientLaureth-4
EmulsifyingCocamidopropyl Betaine
CleansingCocamide Dipa
EmulsifyingLinoleamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate Dimethicone
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingPEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate
EmulsifyingPEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingPolyquaternium-7
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Keratin
HumectantArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientCitric Acid
BufferingPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingWater, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Glycol Distearate, Laureth-4, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cocamide Dipa, Linoleamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate Dimethicone, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Hexylene Glycol, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Parfum, Polyquaternium-7, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Citric Acid, Persea Gratissima Oil, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene
Water
Skin ConditioningSodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate
CleansingCocamidopropyl Betaine
CleansingGlycol Distearate
EmollientPolyquaternium-22
Linoleamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate
PEG-7 Amodimethicone
HumectantPolyquaternium-39
Sodium Hydrolyzed Potato Starch Dodecenylsuccinate
Foam BoostingLaureth-4
EmulsifyingPEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate
EmulsifyingPPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide
EmulsifyingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPropylene Glycol
HumectantHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Citrate
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Benzoate
MaskingParfum
MaskingWater, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Glycol Distearate, Polyquaternium-22, Linoleamidopropyl Pg-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, PEG-7 Amodimethicone, Polyquaternium-39, Sodium Hydrolyzed Potato Starch Dodecenylsuccinate, Laureth-4, PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate, PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Propylene Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Citric Acid, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Learn more about Citric AcidCocamidopropyl Betaine is a fatty acid created by mixing similar compounds in coconut oil and dimethylaminopropylamine, a compound with two amino groups.
This ingredient is a surfactant and cleanser. It helps gather the dirt, pollutants, and other impurities in your skin to be washed away. It also helps thicken a product and make the texture more creamy.
Being created from coconut oil means Cocamidopropyl Betaine is hydrating for the skin.
While Cocamidopropyl Betaine was believed to be an allergen, a study from 2012 disproved this. It found two compounds in unpure Cocamidopropyl Betaine to be the irritants: aminoamide and 3-dimethylaminopropylamine. High-grade and pure Cocamidopropyl Betaine did not induce allergic reactions during this study.
Learn more about Cocamidopropyl BetaineGlycol Distearate is an emulsifier and emollient that adds a "pearly" appearance to formulations.
That lustrous look you see in many shampoos is due to this ingredient: when cooled, it crystallizes into small platelets that reflect light to give products that rich, shimmering look.
This ingredient is considered safe at present practices of use and concentration and repeated insult patch test with 50% Glycol Distearate on 125 subjects found no evidence of skin irritation, hypersensitivity, or acute toxicity.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.1-10%.
Because it's an ester of stearic acid, it falls into the range that Malassezia likes to metabolize. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Glycol DistearateHexylene Glycol is a multitasker ingredient that works as a solvent, humectant, emulsifier, viscosity reducer, and preservative booster.
It is able to dissolve both water and oil-soluble ingredients to stabilize tricky actives and make products spread more easily.
As a humectant, it pulls water into the skin. But it's a pretty minor moisturizing ingredient compared to other humectants, like glycerin.
Interestingly, it can act as a mild penetration enhancer. One in vitro study on human skin found a 12% concentration upped the absorption of mometasone furoate (a medicinal ingredient used to treat inflammatory skin conditions) up to 7%.
This ingredient is typically used at levels of 0.1-10% depending on the role it's playing.
A patch test study on eczema patients didn't find a significant increase in irritation versus the control group, but the potential for irritation rises at higher concentrations.
Learn more about Hexylene GlycolLaureth-4 is a nonionic surfactant made by attaching an average of four ethylene oxide units to Lauryl Alcohol, a fatty alcohol from coconut or palm kernel oil.
In a formula, it does two jobs:
A 2012 assessment found this ingredient is used in leave-on products at up to 21%, which is at the very high end for the category; most cosmetic use is far lower and typically in the single digits.
A true allergy to Laureth-4 is rare; similar alcohol ethoxylates tested negative for skin sensitization in undiluted guinea pig studies, and related compounds were non-sensitizing in Magnusson-Kligman maximization tests.
There is one caveat for this whole ingredient family: ethoxylated surfactants slowly oxidize when exposed to air, and it's the oxidation products, not the fresh material, that act as sensitizers. This is mostly a formulation and shelf life issue.
Dr. James Fulton's rabbit ear test from the 1980's scored this ingredient as a 5 on the comedogenic scale. Fulton himself described the rabbit ear as not an ideal model and the tests used undiluted ingredients on rabbit ears, which are more reactive than human facial skin.
Dr. Draelos later used a human assay on finished cosmetic products and found that products built with so-called comedogenic ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic themselves.
This ingredient can be potentially pore clogging if it appears high in the ingredient list of a leave-on product.
The fungal acne picture is actually reassuring: Malassezia uses fatty acids from its surroundings (C11-24). This ingredient has nothing for the Malassezia yeast to use since it is an alcohol and not an acid.
Supporting this, closely related ethoxylated alcohol detergents like Ceteth-20 get used in Malassezia lab work as neutral carriers to disperse a separately added fatty acid (not as the food source itself).
Learn more about Laureth-4Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPEG-150 Pentaerythrityl Tetrastearate is an emulsifier, thickener, and mild conditioner.
It's made by esterifying and pentaerythritol with stearic acid, and then attaching 150 units of ethylene oxide to make it water-friendly.
This structure lets it bridge oil and water to prevent ingredients from separating and keep formulas stable. It is also the reason it gives cosmetics a creamy feel without the greasiness.
The CIR Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be well-tolerated. Human repeated patch testing on the undiluted version has come back negative for irritation and sensitization. On top of that, its large molecule size makes skin penetration unlikely.
Usage concentration ranges from 5% in rinse-off to 1.8% in leave-on formulas.
Because this ingredient is made from stearic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. Stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate.
Learn more about PEG-150 Pentaerythrityl TetrastearateSodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate is a surfactant that helps water and oil mix so that dirt, sweat, sebum, and sunscreen can rinse away easily. It's not technically a sulfate, but behaves similarly in formulas.
What it does:
Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate is a strong cleansing surfactant and is much stronger than many mild cleansers. Because it works deeply, it can disrupt the skin's barrier. This can lead to dryness or irritation for those with sensitive skin.
Compared to gentler surfactants, it's effective but more likely to dry or irritate if not balanced with soothing ingredients.
CIR considers sodium α-olefin sulfonates (including C14-16) to be safe for use in rinse-off products when properly formulated. It is poorly absorbed through normal skin but absorption increases if the skin barrier is already damaged.
Learn more about Sodium C14-16 Olefin SulfonateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water