What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin Conditioning
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientPolybutene
Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate
Emulsifying
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Microcrystalline Wax
Emulsion StabilisingAroma
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive
Mica
Cosmetic ColorantRicinus Communis Seed Oil
Masking
Squalane
Emollient
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Skin Conditioning
Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
Emollient
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Citric Acid
Buffering
Titanium Dioxide
Cosmetic Colorant
Iron Oxides
CI 15850
Cosmetic ColorantBlue 1 Lake
Cosmetic ColorantCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantPhytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Diisostearyl Malate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polybutene, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Microcrystalline Wax, Aroma, Synthetic Wax, Mica, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Squalane, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Titanium Dioxide, Iron Oxides, CI 15850, Blue 1 Lake, CI 19140
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientPolybutene
Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin Conditioning
Cera Microcristallina
Emulsion StabilisingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Synthetic Wax
Abrasive
Aroma
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
Persea Gratissima Oil
Skin Conditioning
Copernicia Cerifera Cera
Emollient
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Skin Conditioning
Siraitia Grosvenorii Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningRicinus Communis Seed Oil
Masking
Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate
Skin ProtectingButylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Antioxidant
Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
Emollient
Citric Acid
Buffering
CI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantDiisostearyl Malate, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Polybutene, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Cera Microcristallina, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Synthetic Wax, Aroma, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer, Persea Gratissima Oil, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Siraitia Grosvenorii Fruit Extract, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate, Citric Acid, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Aroma refers to an ingredient, or mixture of ingredients, that impart or mask a flavor.
The name is slightly confusing. This is because INCI associates aroma with flavor instead of smell.
Here is the official definition from the The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook:
“Aroma is a term for ingredient labeling used to identify that a product contains a material or combination of materials normally added to a cosmetic to produce or to mask a particular flavor.”
INCI shows the only purpose of aroma to be "flavouring".
However, due to regulation differences, some companies may use aroma in place of parfum.
In Canada, this ingredient only has to be listed in concentrations above 1%.
Learn more about AromaThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidDiisostearyl Malate is an emollient and most often used in lip products. It comes from isostearyl alcohol, a fatty acid, and malic acid, an AHA.
As an emollient, Diisostearyl Malate helps create a thin film on your skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin soft and smooth.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and used as a surface treatment for pigment particles (like iron oxides or titanium dioxide).
It "wraps" these ingredients in a form of slippery jacket so they disperse more evenly in oils, glide better on skin, and stick longer without smudging.
The “triisostearate” part of this ingredient is an ester derived from isostearic acid, a long-chain fatty acid. Malassezia species are lipid-dependent so they rely on external fats to survive. This is why ingredient is flagged for being potentially fungal-acne unsafe.
Learn more about Isopropyl Titanium TriisostearatePhytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate is an emollient ester.
As an emollient, it softens and hydrates your skin by locking moisture in. Its large, branched structure gives it a thick, cushiony feel without being greasy. This is why it shows up most often in lip balms, lipsticks, and other stick or balm formulas, where it adds gloss and helps hold waxes and pigments together.
The phytosterol portion is a nice extra. Phytosterols are plant-based lipids that are structurally similar to ones found naturally in skin, so they can help support the skin barrier.
Because this ingredient contains C16, C18, and C22 fatty chains, it may not be Malassezia/fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast potentially feeds on fatty acids in the C11-C24 range. If you're prone to flare-ups, you might want to patch-test or skip this one.
Learn more about Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer DilinoleatePolybutene is used to help control the viscosity of a product. This just means it helps adjusts the texture.
It is a polymer and does not get absorbed into the skin due to its large size.
Studies found this ingredient did not irritate skin in concentrations below 15%.
Learn more about PolybuteneRicinus Communis Seed Oil is the INCI name for castor oil.
Castor Oil helps moisturize the skin. It is rich in a fatty acid called ricinoleic acid. This fatty acid helps prevent moisture loss on the skin. This helps keep your skin soft and hydrated. Ricinoleic acid also has anti-inflammatory and pain reducing properties.
Besides hydrating the skin, castor oil is also used to hydrate hair. By keeping the hair shaft moisturized, breakage is decreased. More studies are needed to show castor oil's effective on stimulating hair growth.
Castor oil is created by cold-pressing castor seeds and then purifying the oil with heat. It was used in Ancient Egypt as fuel in lamps and to help treat eye irritation.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about Ricinus Communis Seed OilSynthetic Wax is created from fossil fuels such as natural gas. It is used to enhance texture, adjust pH, and as an occlusive.
It may also be used as an abrasive ingredient to exfoliate the skin.
Synthetic Wax may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Synthetic WaxThis ingredient is also known as cupuacu butter. It is a plant butter made from the seeds of the cupuacu fruit and has skin conditioning properties.
Like other botanic butters, cupuacu butter works by reducing moisture loss and improving skin smoothness. Some research suggests it has an unusually high ability to interact with water in lab testing, which may help explain why products containing it can feel deeply hydrating.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated. However, those with very oily or clog-prone skin might prefer it in lighter formulations or lower concentrations.
Due to its fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal acne, safe.
Please note: Fungal acne is not caused by pore clogging. It is caused by an overgrowth of the Malassezia yeast on the skin. This yeast feeds on certain fatty acids.
Learn more about Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
