What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientSnail Secretion Filtrate
Skin ConditioningConvallaria Majalis Extract
Skin ConditioningNelumbo Nucifera Extract
Skin ConditioningCannabis Sativa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
AntioxidantLoess Extract
Skin ConditioningJasminum Sambac Flower Extract
MaskingCharcoal Extract
Skin ConditioningPolyacrylate-13
Polyisobutene
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPEG-14m
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingSqualane
EmollientPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantParfum
MaskingWater, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Propylene Glycol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Convallaria Majalis Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Extract, Cannabis Sativa Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Loess Extract, Jasminum Sambac Flower Extract, Charcoal Extract, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, PEG-14m, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Squalane, Polysorbate 60, Hydroxyacetophenone, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantSteartrimonium Chloride
PreservativeDimethicone
EmollientParaffinum Liquidum
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingCyclomethicone
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantSnail Secretion Filtrate
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientPolyglutamic Acid
Skin ConditioningMenthol
MaskingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningRose Extract
Skin ConditioningArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientPEG-45m
HumectantDimethiconol
EmollientZinc Pyrithione
AntiseborrhoeicBenzophenone-5
UV AbsorberDisodium EDTA
Benzyl Glycol
SolventEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningRaspberry Ketone
MaskingCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantParfum
MaskingWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Propylene Glycol, Steartrimonium Chloride, Dimethicone, Paraffinum Liquidum, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Cyclomethicone, Glycerin, Snail Secretion Filtrate, Betaine, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Polyglutamic Acid, Menthol, Ceramide NP, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Rose Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, PEG-45m, Dimethiconol, Zinc Pyrithione, Benzophenone-5, Disodium EDTA, Benzyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Raspberry Ketone, CI 15985, Parfum
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeHydrolyzed Collagen is Collagen (usually sourced from fish, bovine, or porcine byproducts) that's been broken down into smaller peptides. This makes it water-soluble and easy to blend into formulations.
In a formula, it works mainly as a skin-conditioning and moisturizing agent.
The small peptides and amino acids (including Natural Moisturizing Factor components like Hydroxyproline, Serine, and Aspartic Acid) help the surface of the skin hold onto water, feel softer, and look temporarily plumper.
This ingredient also has mild film-forming and antioxidant properties with research showing the antioxidant effect is stronger the lower the molecular weight of the peptides.
It's worth being realistic here:
Topically applied Hydrolyzed Collagen conditions the upper layers of skin rather than rebuilding the structural collagen deep in your dermis (the wrinkle-and-firmness benefits people associate with Collagen mostly come from oral supplements in studies, not topicals).
However, recent lab and skin-model work on Hydrolyzed Fish Collagen has shown promising effects on cell viability and wound healing when used as an active.
Typical concentrations range from 0.2-2%, but the percentage can go much higher in rinse-off or hair products (sometimes even above 50%).
Clinical studies on this ingredient showed no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity.
If you are looking for vegan collagen, it usually goes by a different INCI name like hydrolyzed soy protein. Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources.
The results are varied.
A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.
However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.
Further studies are needed at this time.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed CollagenParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolSnail Secretion Filtrate (the slimy mucus that garden snails produce) is a multitasking ingredient that shows up in "skin repair" formulas.
This ingredient works because it's a grab bag of skin-friendly stuff like:
In a formula, it acts as a humectant and barrier-supporting soother and the research backs this up as well.
A 2025 systematic review of human clinical trials found that snail-derived ingredients improved signs of aging, increased skin hydration, decreased transepidermal water loss, and improved healing after radiation therapy/fractional laser treatment.
Lab studies have also shown the secretion promotes the proliferation, migration, and survival of the cells that rebuild skin (keratinocytes and dermal fibroblasts).
There's also a placebo-controlled study where a serum containing it helped with mask-related acne.
Overall, this is a gentle, water-based multitasker that works great for hydrating and supporting the skin barrier. However, please see the section below if you have dust mite or shellfish allergies.
You'll see snail filtrate listed at very different percentages depending on the product. Some Korean serums list it near the top of the ingredients at 90% or more while other products use just a few percent.
This doesn't mean the high-percentage ones are far stronger. Raw snail filtrate is mostly water to begin with so using a lot of it isn't the same thing as using a lot of the active ingredients.
Other products use a concentrated version so a small amount goes a long way. Either approach can work well. Just know the percentage on the label isn't a reliable way to judge how effective a snail product will be.
Being cruelty-free means a brand does not experiment on animals. If you're worried about the well-being of the snails, we recommend looking more into the company of the product. Many brands claim to have developed humane methods to collect snail mucin.
There is much debate on this subject. On one hand, this ingredient comes from an animal. On the other hand, many will argue the ingredient is naturally secreted (like a natural by-product) and therefore vegan. If you have reservations, you can look into Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate or Centella Asiatica Extract as alternatives.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe. Its core composition lacks the fatty acid/ester triggers that Malassezia depends on.
True allergy to Snail Secretion Filtrate is uncommon and most documented cases are linked to a dust mite allergy.
Snail proteins (including Tropomyosin) are similar enough to dust mite proteins that the immune system can confuse them.
In most documented cases, the dust mite was the original trigger and tropomyosin turned out to be only a minor player in some studies (so this has not been fully confirmed).
Another thing to know is that nearly all the evidence comes from eating snails or inhaling the protein and not from cosmetics.
However, the allergenic proteins can survive filtration into a finished product; a topical reaction is biologically plausible but there's little published evidence of it actually happening.
People who are allergic to dust mites (or sometimes shellfish) are the most likely to react.
Learn more about Snail Secretion FiltrateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water