What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantCastanea Crenata Shell Extract
Skin ConditioningPEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingCinnamomum Cassia Bark
Skin ConditioningAnthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
MaskingRhus Semialata Gall Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTriethanolamine
BufferingSalix Alba Bark Extract
Astringent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialYeast Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantMentha Haplocalix Extract
MaskingHamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningMenthyl Lactate
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantHydrolyzed Albumen
Skin ConditioningScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningGlycine
BufferingGlutamic Acid
HumectantHistidine
HumectantLysine
Skin ConditioningProline
Skin ConditioningSerine
MaskingAlanine
MaskingArginine
MaskingAspartic Acid
MaskingLeucine
Skin ConditioningThreonine
Valine
MaskingParfum
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingWater, Butylene Glycol, Castanea Crenata Shell Extract, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Rhus Semialata Gall Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Salix Alba Bark Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Allantoin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Yeast Ferment Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Mentha Haplocalix Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Menthyl Lactate, Glycerin, Hydrolyzed Albumen, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Beta-Glucan, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Histidine, Lysine, Proline, Serine, Alanine, Arginine, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Threonine, Valine, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Limonene, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Citronellol
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingArginine
MaskingPEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingPhormium Tenax Extract
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantCitrus Grandis Peel Oil
MaskingHamamelis Virginiana Extract
AntiseborrhoeicWine Extract
AntioxidantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAlthaea Rosea Root Extract
HumectantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Powder
Skin ConditioningPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningLimonene
PerfumingWater, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Carbomer, Arginine, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Phormium Tenax Extract, Allantoin, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Wine Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Althaea Rosea Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Beta-Glucan, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Powder, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Limonene
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinArginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineBeta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.
It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.
On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin
The more interesting story is underneath:
Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.
A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.
It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.
This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.
Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.
Learn more about Beta-GlucanButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCarbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerDipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Learn more about Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimonenePeg-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil comes from hydrogenated castor oil. It is a solubilizer and emulsifier.
As a solubilizer, it helps dissolve ingredients into a water-based version. It is also an emulsifer. Emulsifier help prevent oils and water from separating. Both these properties help create evenly-spread and uniform products.
Basically, Peg-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil helps hold ingredients together.
Learn more about PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor OilWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water