What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPEG-12 Dimethicone
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePPG-26-Buteth-26
Skin ConditioningSodium Citrate
BufferingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialCitric Acid
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Maltodextrin
AbsorbentPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingWater, Glycerin, PEG-12 Dimethicone, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Sodium Citrate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Chlorphenesin, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Bisabolol, Disodium EDTA, Maltodextrin, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
Solvent3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPEG-12 Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningEctoin
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantCarnosine
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingSphingomonas Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePropylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningSodium Metabisulfite
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Chloride
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningWater, Propanediol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Pentylene Glycol, PEG-12 Dimethicone, Ectoin, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Carnosine, Citric Acid, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sphingomonas Ferment Extract, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Metabisulfite, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Chloride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidPEG-12 Dimethicone is a type of water-soluble silicone. It has skin conditioning and hydrating properties.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient's stability is decreased by strong acid or alkali.
PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is an emulsifier derived from castor oil.
As an emulsifying agent, it helps other ingredients like fragrances and fat-soluble vitamins dissolve cohesively.
Due to its large molecule size, it doesn't penetrate beyond the skin's surface.
This ingredient has a solid regulatory track record; the CIR Expert Panel first concluded it was safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 100% in 1997. A 2012 reassessment reaffirmed that finding. Safety studies have also found no irritation or evidence of toxicity.
A 2019 study did find this ingredient to grow Malassezia, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum