What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventPEG-60 Almond Glycerides
EmulsifyingGlycerin
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPropolis Extract
Skin ConditioningRosa Canina Fruit Extract
AstringentHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-4 Oleate
EmulsifyingSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingLecithin
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Tocopherol
AntioxidantParfum
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Peel Oil
Limonene
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingAmyl Salicylate
PerfumingPinene
MaskingGeranyl Acetate
PerfumingTerpinolene
PerfumingTerpineol
MaskingCitral
PerfumingWater, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Propanediol, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, Glycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propolis Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Hydroxyacetophenone, Xanthan Gum, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Sodium Gluconate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Citric Acid, Lecithin, Pentylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Tocopherol, Parfum, Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil, Limonene, Geraniol, Citronellol, Linalool, Amyl Salicylate, Pinene, Geranyl Acetate, Terpinolene, Terpineol, Citral
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventPolyglyceryl-4 Caprate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-6 Caprylate
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-38
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPolyglyceryl-3 Cocoate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate
EmulsifyingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Sodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantWater, Propanediol, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Glycerin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-38, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyglyceryl-3 Cocoate, Polyglyceryl-6 Ricinoleate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Ascorbic Acid
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneThis ingredient is used in skincare as a delivery system.
It works by "encapsulating" active ingredients with its unique ring shape that is water-loving on the outside and oil-loving on the inside. This improves the stability and absorption of the product into the skin.
According to a manufacturer, it also offer some moisturizing effects.
Learn more about Hydroxypropyl CyclodextrinPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water