What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Masking
Euphorbia Cerifera Cera
Astringent
Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Emollient
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Rhus Succedanea Fruit Cera
EmollientMacadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Dunaliella Salina Extract
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Stevia Rebaudiana Extract
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
Masking
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Masking
Mentha Piperita Oil
Masking
Linalool
Perfuming
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Euphorbia Cerifera Cera, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Stearic Acid, Rhus Succedanea Fruit Cera, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopherol, Stevia Rebaudiana Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Mentha Piperita Oil, Linalool
Ricinus Communis Seed Oil
Masking
Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides
Emollient
Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Rosinate
Perfuming
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Euterpe Oleracea Sterols
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
Skin Conditioning
Aroma
Acetylated Glyceryl Stearate/Palmitate
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract
Emollient
Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax
EmollientTriticum Vulgare Seed Extract
BufferingEuphorbia Cerifera Wax
Copernicia Cerifera Cera
Emollient
Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter
Skin Conditioning
Dictyopteris Membranacea Extract
Antioxidant
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Octyldodecanol
Emollient
Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides
Emollient
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Ascorbyl Palmitate
Antioxidant
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialAmmonium Glycyrrhizate
MaskingMentha Piperita Oil
Masking
Sodium Levulinate
Skin ConditioningSodium Anisate
AntimicrobialLinoleic Acid
Cleansing
Oleic Acid
Emollient
Rosa Canina Fruit/Flower Extract
Humectant
Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantRicinus Communis Seed Oil, Oleic/Linoleic/Linolenic Polyglycerides, Rhus Verniciflua Peel Cera, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Glyceryl Rosinate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sorbitan Olivate, Euterpe Oleracea Sterols, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Aroma, Acetylated Glyceryl Stearate/Palmitate, Glycerin, Cocos Nucifera Fruit Extract, Myrica Cerifera Fruit Wax, Triticum Vulgare Seed Extract, Euphorbia Cerifera Wax, Copernicia Cerifera Cera, Irvingia Gabonensis Kernel Butter, Dictyopteris Membranacea Extract, Stearic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octyldodecanol, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Mentha Piperita Oil, Sodium Levulinate, Sodium Anisate, Linoleic Acid, Oleic Acid, Rosa Canina Fruit/Flower Extract, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, CI 77491, CI 77492, CI 77499, CI 77891
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.
It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.
As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.
Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited.
Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:
Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.
It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.
Learn more about Ascorbyl PalmitateThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilThis essential oil is steam-distilled from peppermint leaves, also known as peppermint oil. It's mainly used for scent in skincare but also provides that signature "cooling" sensation.
Peppermint oil is a "feels amazing" ingredient until it doesn't.
At higher doses or for those with sensitive skin, methol-type cooling can quickly turn into burning/irritation. It can also trigger irritant dermatitis or even allergic contact dermatitis. In a large patch-test dataset, peppermint oil had a low but positive rate for this.
In cosmetics, Cosmetic Safety Reviews (CIR) concludes that peppermint oil is safe to use when formulated to be non-sensitizing with some restrictions; for instance, pulegone, a naturally occurring component of peppermint oil, should not exceed 1%.
Since peppermint oil contains fragrance allergens such as limonene, linalool, and menthol, it can be sensitizing for those with rosacea, eczema, a broken skin barrier, or just sensitive skin in general.
In Japan, this ingredient is known as Hakka Yu.
Learn more about Mentha Piperita OilRicinus Communis Seed Oil is the INCI name for castor oil.
Castor Oil helps moisturize the skin. It is rich in a fatty acid called ricinoleic acid. This fatty acid helps prevent moisture loss on the skin. This helps keep your skin soft and hydrated. Ricinoleic acid also has anti-inflammatory and pain reducing properties.
Besides hydrating the skin, castor oil is also used to hydrate hair. By keeping the hair shaft moisturized, breakage is decreased. More studies are needed to show castor oil's effective on stimulating hair growth.
Castor oil is created by cold-pressing castor seeds and then purifying the oil with heat. It was used in Ancient Egypt as fuel in lamps and to help treat eye irritation.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about Ricinus Communis Seed OilStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about Tocopherol
