What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAzelaic Acid
Buffering
Propylene Glycol
Humectant
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Sorbitol
Humectant
Chondrus Crispus Extract
Skin Conditioning
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingChlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningGlucose
Humectant
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
Moisturising1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Fructooligosaccharides
Humectant
Fructose
Humectant
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningBiosaccharide Gum-1
Humectant
Tromethamine
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTocopherol
Antioxidant
Betaine
Humectant
Zinc PCA
Humectant
Dipropylene Glycol
HumectantHyaluronic Acid/Polyisopropylacrylamide Copolymer
Humectant
Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
CleansingHydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Water, Azelaic Acid, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Hydroxide, Pentylene Glycol, Panthenol, Sorbitol, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Glucose, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Fructooligosaccharides, Fructose, Ethylhexylglycerin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol, Betaine, Zinc PCA, Dipropylene Glycol, Hyaluronic Acid/Polyisopropylacrylamide Copolymer, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.
What makes it special?
OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.
Here's what each tier does best:
Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.
Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.
Learn more about Azelaic AcidPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan GumZinc PCA is a clever two-in-one molecule: the zinc salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA).
Think of it as two useful things bonded together; the PCA half is one of your skin's own natural moisturizing factors (NMF) so it helps hold water in the upper layers. On the other hand, the zinc half does the heavy lifting on oil and bacteria.
The zinc part slows down an enzyme that turns testosterone into DHT, the hormone that tells your oil glands to pump out more sebum. Less of that signal means less oil. It also gently fights acne-causing bacteria and soothes redness/irritation.
This is why Zinc PCA often shows up in products for oily, breakout-prone skin and greasy scalps.
One lab study also hinted it might have a small anti-aging perk because it seemed to protect collagen from UVA damage and even helped the skin make a bit more of it. That last bit is still early research done in a dish and not real skin, so take it as a nice bonus rather than a promise for now.
As for scar healing, the picture is more "maybe" than a firm yes. Zinc itself plays a real role in wound repair because it is a cofactor for the enzymes involved in collagen building, calming inflammation, and helping new skin cells cover a wound. Lower zinc levels are also linked to slower healing.
Most of the scar healing research is on zinc oxide or oral zinc rather than zinc PCA specifically, with a focus on healing fresh wounds instead of scars that are already there.
Direct evidence that zinc PCA improves the look of established scars is still limited at this time. Though it would be fair to say zinc PCA supports the general skin-repair environment thanks to its zinc content .
This ingredient is water-soluble and plays nicely with other actives like niacinamide and salicylic acid. It works best at mildly acidic formulas (~4-6 pH) and is effective at low levels. Around 0.1% is enough to be active and finished products commonly use it anywhere up to 4%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-drama multitasker that suits oily and acne-prone skin.
Learn more about Zinc PCA
